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kilo. The cook will hack off falling-from-the-bone lamb and hand it to you with fresh-
baked bread, cumin, salt and olives in a takeaway baggie, or serve it to you on paper in a
nearby stall.
MOROCCAN
Souk Kafé
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( 0662 61 02 29; 11 Derb Souk Jedid, near Rue Riad El-Arous; mains Dh65-80; 9am-9pm) Pull up
a hand-hewn stool under terrace sun umbrellas and stay awhile: this is authentic local food
worth savouring. The Moroccan mezze of six savoury, cooked vegetable dishes qualifies
as lunch for two, and the vegetarian Berber couscous is surprisingly hearty - but wait until
you get a whiff of the aromatic Marrakshi tanjia, beef that flakes apart after slow-cooking
in a hammam across the street.
Earth Café
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FUSION, VEGETARIAN
( 0661 28 94 02; 2 Derb Zouak; mains Dh60-80; 11am-11pm; ) Now for something com-
pletely different: a vegetarian spring roll stuffed with organic spinach, pumpkin, blue
cheese and grated carrot with a sesame dressing, right in the heart of the souqs off Rue Ri-
ad Zitoun el-Kedim. The Earth Café's sunshine-yellow courtyard is small, but its veggie
culinary ambitions are great - the warm beet salad with goat cheese may make believers
out of carnivores and the freshly squeezed fruit and veg smoothies give souq-weary shop-
pers a much-needed boost.
Haj Mustapha
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MOROCCAN
(east side, Souq Ablueh; tanjia with bread & olives Dh35-50; 6-10pm) As dusk approaches, sever-
al stalls set out paper-sealed crockpots of tanjia . This 'bachelor's stew' makes for messy
eating, but Haj Mustapha offers the cleanest seating inside a scuffed stall. Use bread to
scoop up tanjia, sprinkle with cumin and salt, and chase with olives.
Café des Épices
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( 0254 39 17 70; Pl Rahba Kedima; breakfast Dh25, sandwich or salad Dh25-50; 8am-9pm) Watch
the magic happen as you sip freshly squeezed OJ while overlooking the Rahba Kedima
potion dealers. Salads and sandwiches are fresh and made to order - try the tangy chicken
CAFE, SANDWICHES
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