Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
WORTH A TRIP
GREAT ESCAPES: THE AGAFAY DESERT
If you don't have time to traverse mountain passes, you can take an overnight trip to the Agafay
Desert , a rough, dry, moon-like expanse 40km southwest of Marrakesh down the Rte d'Amizmiz.
This is a favourite playground for weekending Marrakshis who come for a spot of horse-riding, dune-
gazing and canoeing on Lalla Takerkoust , a manmade reservoir on the edge of the Agafay. In spring,
the desert is covered with wheat and wildflowers, but in summer and autumn it really does look like
the desert. Here's our pick of the region's country retreats and camps:
Scarabeo ( 0661 44 41 58; www.scarabeo-camp.com ; standard/ste/child tent incl half board
Dh2020/2580/1240) This nomadic eco-camp moves its 12 elegant bivouacs according to season, but
there are always views of the desert and High Atlas. During the day spend your time trekking, camel
riding, paragliding or flying kites, and by night dozens of lamps light your way to open-air film pro-
jections and unforgettable stargazing.
La Pause ( 0661 30 64 94; www.lapause-marrakech.com ; N 31°26.57, W 008°10.31, Douar Lmih
Laroussiéne; per person incl full board Dh1685; ) Skip off the grid to this desert get-away for days
spent playing turf-free golf or Frisbee or hanging out in hammocks by the pool. Kids can ride off into
the sunset on mountain bikes, Arabian stallions or dromedaries and return to candlelight feasts.
Jnane Tihihit ( 0668 46 55 45; www.riad-t.com/jnane-tihihit ; Douar Makhfamane; d Dh500-850;
) Relax in whitewashed pisé (rammed-earth) bungalows amid pomegranate trees. Foodies
can tend saffron gardens and learn to make couscous (meals Dh80 to Dh160), while kids can go riding
or head out to the lakefront beach or lounge by the chemical-free pool.
Dar Zitoune ( 0662 40 83 80; www.dar-zitoune.com ; Douar Zii; s incl breakfast Dh480-530, d
Dh660-810; ) Escape the urban hustle at this stone-walled country house, with a pool in the
garden. Your host Anouar organises eco-excursions from canoeing and dromedary riding to trekking
on the Kik Plateau.
Public Hammams
For authentic Moroccan spa experiences at bargain prices, head to your local neighbour-
hood hammam, where entry costs about Dh10, gommage (scrub) Dh15 to Dh30 and mas-
sage Dh50 to Dh100. All public hammams are single sex and have three main rooms: one
cool, one hot, one very hot.
Bring your community hammam kit: towel, flip-flops, plastic mat and a change of
knickers or boxer shorts (you'll be expected to wear yours).
Hammam Dar el-Bacha
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HAMMAM
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