Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Tortola, with only 21 square miles, is the largest of about 50
scattered islands and cays, many of which are uninhabited.
Don't let distance fool you, however. Because of steep hills, a car
trip around or across the island is a slow undertaking. The
other prime destination is Virgin Gorda, home to both resorts
and marinas. Separated from Tortola by the Sir Francis Drake
Channel, Virgin Gorda is an even quieter version of Tortola.
Equally hilly, most activity and lodging here is clustered
around the Spanish Town region and marina area.
The other islands are even less visited. Jost (pronounced
“Yoast”) Van Dyke was named for a Dutch pirate, and today
the tiny island is a getaway for those seeking true tranquility,
beautiful snorkeling waters, and a sometimes rollicking atmo-
sphere. Peter Island is almost totally owned by a single resort
operated by the Amway Corporation.
If you read the tabloids you may have heard of Necker Island,
a hideaway for the rich and famous, like Princess Di and Oprah.
And there's Anegada, a quiet destination that rises barely 27
feet over sea level. Between these islands, tiny landforms dot
the horizon. Look for Dead Chest, a tiny islet of bare rock
where legend has it Blackbeard marooned his men to fight over
a single bottle of rum. (Remember “Fifteen men on a dead man's
chest, Yo ho ho and a bottle of rum”? Now you know where that
got started.)
All the islands in the BVI are semi-arid, sprinkled with cacti
and succulents, but also dotted with tropical blooms. A drive
around Tortola reveals numerous coconut palms and flowering
hibiscus, mixed with tall organ and squat barrel cacti. The is-
lands receive only about 16 inches of rain a year.
The British Virgin Islands are different from their American
cousins. Life is quieter here and more attuned to the sea. Days
aren't spent shopping, but limin' , as the locals say. meaning
hanging out and doing nothing at all. Nights are even quieter,
beneath the stars that guided explorers here over 500 years
ago. And when morning comes, if you've stayed at one of the
small inns for which the BVI is known, your alarm clock may
well be the rooster next door.
For some couples, this is true paradise. This was one of our first
Caribbean destinations, and it remains one of our favorites.
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