West Coast - Hiking and Tramping in New Zealand - page 485

you pass the first set of mining artefacts - a pile of rusting rails. Within 1km you reach
Smoke-Ho Creek , crossing it on a swing bridge.
The track then winds above Blackball Creek before descending to a grassy flat and First
Hotel site , the location of a hotel in the late 1800s. The clearing is about 30 minutes from
the car park.
Having crossed Clarke Creek on a swing bridge, the track to Ces Clark Hut continues
north and in around 30 minutes reaches the signposted Second Hotel site , and if the weath-
er permits you will be greeted with grand views of the Paparoa Range .
Follow the true left (east) bank of Blackball Creek as the track zigzags for one hour be-
fore reaching a junction where a side trail heads north to the last remaining battery, Garden
Gully. The Croesus Track heads west, climbing steadily towards Ces Clark Hut, with
glimpses of Lake Margaret below.
During the hour-long climb the track heads roughly west, then south, emerging through
the bushline at Top Hut , a historic hut not suitable for overnight stops. Here you are greeted
with fine views of the Grey Valley, past Lake Brunner to the Main Divide. You then round a
spur to head north and quickly reach Ces Clark Hut (16 bunks), which enjoys splendid
views of the Grey Valley.
This memorial hut, dedicated to a ranger who died on the track, is a fine place to spend a
night. One of its many merits is that it's in great spotted kiwi (roa) territory. Occasionally
kiwi can be heard from the hut, particularly the male, whose 'ki-wi' call is almost a shrill
whistle. For those really keen to hear the bird, follow the track for 10 minutes above the hut
to a small spur overlooking the Roaring Meg catchment. Kiwi are more active on dark
nights than moonlit ones, and on such evenings it would be unusual not to hear a few calls
from this spot in the first hour after sunset.
SIDE TRIP: GARDEN GULLY BATTERY TRACK
1 HOUR, 3KM RETURN
From the signposted Garden Gully junction, continue north to see Garden Gully Hut near
the headwaters of Roaring Meg Creek (five minutes). Garden Gully is an old miners' hut
dating from the 1930s that has been recently restored for viewing (not overnight stops).
Cross the creek on a swing bridge and the track soon forks. To the left, after 10 minutes, is
the Garden Gully Battery , the only one in the area still standing. To the right, a route climbs
for 15 minutes (30 minutes from Garden Gully junction) to the collapsed mine entrance.