Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
To spend the night at Totaranui you need a tent - there are no huts or cabins - and there is
a one-night limit for trampers. The next and final hut is at Whariwharangi, three hours away.
Totaranui Campsite ( 03-528 8083; www.doc.govt.nz; summer/winter $15/10) is an ex-
tremely popular facility with a whopping capacity (850 campers) and a splendid setting next
to the beach backed by some of the best bush in the park. A staffed DOC office has inter-
pretive displays, flush toilets, cold showers and a public phone.
Day 5: Totaranui to Wainui Car Park
4-5 HOURS, 13KM
Follow the tree-lined avenue in front of the camp office and turn north at the intersection,
passing the Education Centre. At the end of the road the Anapai Bay Track begins, crossing
Kaikau Stream and reaching a junction with the Headlands Track. Take the left fork, climb-
ing to a low saddle and then descending along a forested stream to Anapai Bay , which is
split in two by unusual rock outcrops. The Anapai Bay Campsite is one hour from
Totaranui; it makes for a great place to spend a night, as the sites overlook the scenic beach.
The Coast Track continues up the sandy beach, then heads inland. After 2km it reaches
Mutton Cove and the Mutton Cove Campsite.
From the campsite, the track - an old farm road - heads inland over a low saddle. Or you
can take a one-hour detour along an alternative route that takes in Separation Point , the
granite headland separating Tasman Bay from Golden Bay. Pick up this track by continuing
along the beach at Mutton Cove to the northern end of the second bay. This track climbs to
the side trail from the Coast Track and eliminates any backtracking. The views are worth the
walk - Farewell Spit is visible to the northwest, and on an exceptionally clear day so is the
North Island. The point is also a favourite haunt of migrating fur seals, which are often spot-
ted sunning themselves on the rocks or swimming offshore. Follow the side trail west, and
within 30 minutes you return to the true Coast Track at the low saddle between Mutton
Cove and Whariwharangi Bay.
From this saddle the track descends through regenerating scrubland. About 2km from
Mutton Cove it reaches Whariwharangi Bay, another beautiful, curved beach. Whariwhar-
angi Hut (20 bunks) is at the western end of the bay, 500m inland. This hut is unique; it's a
restored two-storey farmhouse built in 1897 that was last permanently occupied in 1926.
Nearby is Whariwharangi Campsite.
Those who wish to loop back to Totaranui can follow the Gibbs Hill Track (three hours)
beyond Whariwharangi. Otherwise, continue to Wainui by following the Coast Track, which
 
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