The Samurai - Everyday Life in Traditional Japan - page 20

(b). Samurai in kami-shimo.
Rank was also reflected in clothes. For ceremonial occasions and when on duty, the
samurai wore clothes as shown in figure 14b . The formal part of his attire is the kami-
shimo, the combination of “upper and lower,” that is, an over-jacket (kataginu) with
stiffened shoulders and trousers (hakama), more like a divided skirt; the trousers had a
very low crotch, and openings at the sides, and were held in place by two sets of ties on
the front and rear parts, fastening round the waist. On ordinary occasions for samurai of
all ranks, and for lower-ranking ones at all times, these trousers finished at a little above
ground-level, but for superior ranking warriors at special ceremonies, very long trousers
wereworn;these trailed onthefloorandthefeet wereentirely enclosed within them( 14a ) .
The wearing of these nagabakama required special skill; any change of direction had to
be accompanied by sharp movements of the feet to bring the trailing portion behind the
wearer, otherwise there was danger of tripping; he must also grip each leg of the trousers,
pullingitupateverysteptogivehislegroomformovement.Itwaspossibletoruninthem,
but this required extremely good coordination between hand and leg. Obviously this was
an impracticable garment, although an imposing one; its use was a status symbol, demon-
strating that its wearer had the leisure to learn to manage it, but it is also said that the rulers
ordered it to be worn because it would impede anyone if he tried to make a violent attack.
They were not normally worn out of doors.