Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
WORTH A DETOUR
BELGRANO
Bustling Av Cabildo, the racing heartbeat of Belgrano, is an overwhelming jumble of noise and neon.
It's a two-way street of clothing, shoe and housewares shops that does its part in supporting porteños '
mass consumerism. For a bit more peace and quiet, head to the blocks on either side of the avenue,
where Belgrano becomes a leafy barrio of museums, plazas, parks and good local eateries.
A block east of Av Cabildo, the barrio's plaza is the site of the modest but fun Feria Plaza Bel-
grano (cnr Juramento & Cuba; 10am-8pm Sat & Sun). On a sunny weekend it's full of shoppers
and families with strollers. Near the plaza stands the Italianate Iglesia de la Inmaculada Concepción ,
a church popularly known as La Redonda (The Round One) because of its impressive dome.
Just a few steps from the plaza is the Museo Histórico Sarmiento ( 4782-2354;
www.museosarmiento.gov.ar ; Juramento 2180; admission AR$15; 1-6pm Mon-Fri, 3-7pm Sat &
Sun), which honors one of the most forward-thinking Argentines in history. Also close by is the
Museo de Arte Español Enrique Larreta ( 4784-4040; www.museolarreta.buenosaires.gov.ar ;
Juramento 2291; admission AR$5; 1-7pm Mon -Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun), a mansion with gor-
geous art pieces and gardens. About five blocks north is yet another museum, the Museo Casa de
Yrurtia (
4781-0385; O'Higgins 2390; admission AR$10, Wed free;
11:30am-6pm Wed-Fri,
3-7pm Sat & Sun), honoring the well-known Argentine sculptor.
Four blocks northeast of Plaza Belgrano, French landscape architect Carlos Thays took advantage
of the contours of Barrancas de Belgrano to create an attractive, green public space on one of the
few natural hillocks in the city. Retirees spend the afternoon at the chess tables beneath its ombú tree,
and on Saturday and Sunday evenings the band shell hosts a popular outdoor milonga (tango event).
Across Juramento from Barrancas, Belgrano's growing Chinatown fills three blocks on Arribeños,
with more Chinese businesses spilling over into the side streets. Don't come on Mondays, however, as
many places are shut; do come on Chinese New Year, when festivities abound.
You'll probably head into Belgrano via Av Cabildo, either by bus or Subte (the Subte runs right un-
der Cabildo). Plaza Belgrano is one block east of Cabildo at Juramento; most sights are around the
plaza. Barrancas de Belgrano is the location of Belgrano's bus and train stations and is located about
four blocks from the plaza.
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