Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
San Telmo keeps gentrifying. Fancy restaurants and bars continue to pop up with reg-
ularity, mixing it up with a few old classics like historic cafes that have hardly
changed over the years. Here older gentlemen still show up for their morning coffee
and
medialunas
, but there's space for everyone - and this neighborhood has become
very popular with locals, travelers and expats.
BAR PLAZA DORREGO
CAFE
( 4361-0141; Defensa 1098; 8am-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat)
You can't beat the atmo-
sphere at this traditional joint; sip your
submarino
(hot milk with chocolate) by a pictur-
esque window and watch the world pass by, or grab a table on the busy plaza. Meanwhile,
traditionally suited waiters, piped-in tango music, antique bottles and scribbled graffiti on
walls and counters might take you back in time.
DOPPELGÄNGER
( 4300-0201; Av Juan de Garay 500)
This cool, emerald-hued corner bar is one of the only
places in BA where you can count on a perfectly mixed martini. That's because Doppel-
gänger specializes in vermouth cocktails. The atmosphere is calm and the lengthy menu is
fascinating: start with the journalist, a martini with a bitter orange twist, or channel Don
Draper and go for the bar's bestseller - an old-fashioned.
COCKTAIL BAR
GIBRALTAR
( 4362-5310; Perú 895; noon-4am)
One of BA's classic pubs, the Gibraltar has a cozy at-
mosphere and good bar counter for those traveling alone. It's also a great place for fairly
authentic foreign cuisine - try the Thai, Indian or English dishes (full English breakfast
offered from noon to 5pm). For a little friendly competition, head to the pool table in the
back.
PUB
COFFEE TOWN
MAP
COFFEE
GOOGLE MAP
( 4361-0019;
www.coffeetownargentina.com
; Bolivar 976, inside Mercado de San Telmo; 10am-8pm)
For some of BA's best coffee, drop into this very casual kiosk inside the Mercado de San
