Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
EATING
The heart of San Telmo, Plaza Dorrego is surrounded by several cafe-restaurants that
pop open their umbrellas from Monday to Saturday. On Sunday, however, the plaza
(and a few surrounding streets) is taken over by vendors and tourists jamming the
ever-popular antiques market. San Telmo has traditionally supported a large cluster
of
parrillas,
but as the neighborhood inexorably gentrifies, more innovative, upscale
and pricier restaurants and bars are moving in.
ORIGEN CAFÉ
MAP
INTERNATIONAL $
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( 4362-7979; Primo 599; mains AR$50-70; 8am-10pm Tue-Fri & Sun, to 9:30pm Mon & Sat)
Modern but unpretentious, this stylish corner bistro spills out onto the wide sidewalks; snag
an outdoor table on a sunny afternoon. The creative menu features health-conscious dishes
from stir-fries and whole-wheat pizzas to homemade soups and green salads. There's an
emphasis on vegetarian food, and the cappuccinos are served in delightfully oversized
mugs.
EL DESNIVEL
( 4300-9081; Defensa 855; mains AR$45-80; noon-4:30pm & 7pm-1am Mon-Fri, noon-1am Sat &
Sun)
This famous and long-running
parrilla
joint packs in both locals and tourists, serving
them treats like chorizo sandwiches and
bife de lomo
(tenderloin steak). The sizzling grill
out front is torturous while you wait for a table (which could be in the large back room) -
get here early, especially on weekends.
PARRILLA $
BAR EL FEDERAL $
( 4300-4313; cnr Perú & Carlos Calvo; mains AR$35-110; 8am-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat)
Dating from 1864, this historic bar has a classic, somewhat rustic atmosphere accented
with original wood, tile, and an eye-catching antique bar. The specialties here are sand-
wiches (especially turkey) and
picadas
(shared appetizer plates), but there are also lots of
pastas, salads, desserts and tall mugs of icy beer.
ARGENTINE
LA POESIA $
MAP
ARGENTINE
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