Travel Reference
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decades. It was built by military engineers inspired by the beaux arts Correo Central. A
twin building planned for the navy never got off the ground.
Museo del Bicentenario
Behind the Casa Rosada you'll notice a glassy wedge marking this airy and sparkling -
and free! - underground museum ( 4344-3802; www.museobicentenario.gob.ar ; cnr Avs Paseo
Colón & Hipólito Yrigoyen; 10am-6pm Wed-Sun Apr-Nov, 11am-7pm Wed-Sun Dec-Mar) housed
within the brick vaults of the old aduana (customs house). Head down into the open
space, which has over a dozen side rooms - each dedicated to a different era of Argen-
tina's tumultuous political history. There are mostly videos (in Spanish) and a few arti-
facts to see, along with temporary art exhibitions and an impressive restored mural by
Mexican artist David Alfaro Siqueiros. A pleasant cafe-restaurant provides nourishment
and rest.
Catedral Metropolitana
This solemn cathedral ( 7:30am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat & Sun) was built on the site of
the original colonial church and not finished until 1827. It's a significant religious and ar-
chitectural landmark, and carved above its triangular facade and neoclassical columns are
bas-reliefs of Jacob and Joseph. The spacious interior is equally impressive, with baroque
details and an elegant rococo altar.
More importantly, however, the cathedral is a national historical site that contains the
tomb of General José de San Martín, Argentina's most revered hero. In the chaos follow-
ing independence, San Martín chose exile in France, never returning alive to Argentina
(although in 1829 a boat on which he traveled sighted Buenos Aires on its way to Mon-
tevideo). Outside the cathedral you'll see a flame keeping his spirit alive.
Tours of the church and crypt (in Spanish) were suspended at research time, but check
during your tenure to see if they're being offered again. If you want a Pope Francis
souvenir (he's Argentine, after all), explore the tiny gift shop inside. Occasional free choir
concerts are also on the docket.
Cabildo
This mid-18th-century town hall building is now a museum ( 4342-6729;
www.cabildonacional.com.ar ; Bolívar 65; admission AR$10; 10:30am-5pm Wed-Fri, to 6pm Sat &
Sun) . It used to have colonnades that spanned Plaza de Mayo, but, unfortunately, the build-
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