Smolny & Vosstaniya - St Petersburg - page 196

EATING

Liteyny & Smolny

VVEGGETARIAN ARIAN

BOTANIKA €€
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( Ботаника ; www.cafebotanika.ru ; ul Pestelya 7; mains R200-450; Gostiny Dvor;
) Enjoying perhaps the friendliest and most laid-back atmosphere of any res-
taurant in St Petersburg, this vegetarian charmer wins on all counts. The menu takes
in Russian, Indian, Italian and Japanese dishes, all of which are very well realised,
service is friendly, English is spoken and there's even a playroom and dedicated menu
for the kids. Highly recommended.

RUSSIAN SSIAN

MOLOKHOVETS' DREAM €€€
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( Мечта Молоховец ; 929 2247; www.molokhovets.ru ; ul Radishcheva 10; mains
R1200-1600; Ploshchad Vosstaniya; ) Inspired by the cookbook of Elena Molok-
hovets ( CLICK HERE ), the Russian Mrs Beeton, the menu here covers all the classics
from borsch to beef stroganoff, as well as less frequently seen dishes such as goose
breast in forest berry sauce and veal cutlets in mushroom ragu. Start with berry kissel,
a delicious sweet soup of brambles and wine, and don't bypass the speciality, koulibi-
aca, a golden pastry pie of fish or rabbit. Whatever you have here, you can be sure it's
the definitive version - this place is something of an institution locally and takes its
food very seriously. Book ahead for dinner.

A GIFT TO YOUNG HOUSEWIVES

The most popular cookbook in 19th-century Russia was called A Gift to Young
Housewives, a collection of favourite recipes and household management tips
that turned into a bestseller. The author, Elena Molokhovets, a housewife her-