Eating in Thailand - Bangkok - page 515

(CON)FUSION CUISINE
A popular dish at restaurants across Thailand is kôw pàt à·me·rí·gan, 'American fried rice'. Taking the form of
rice fried with ketchup, raisins and peas, sides of ham and deep-fried hot dogs, and topped with a fried egg, the
dish is, well, every bit as revolting as it sounds. But at least there's an interesting history behind it: American
fried rice apparently dates back to the Vietnam War era, when thousands of US troops were based in northeastern
Thailand. A local cook apparently decided to take the ubiquitous 'American Breakfast' (also known as ABF:
fried eggs with ham and/or hot dogs, and white bread, typically eaten with ketchup) and make it 'Thai' by frying
the various elements with rice.
This culinary cross-pollination is only a recent example of the tendency of Thai cooks to pick and choose from
the variety of cuisines at their disposal. Other (significantly more palatable) examples include gaang ma ́ t·sa ̀ ·ma ̀ n,
'Muslim curry', a now classic blend of Thai and Middle Eastern cooking styles, and the famous pàt tai, essen-
tially a blend of Chinese cooking methods and ingredients (frying, rice noodles) with Thai flavours (fish sauce,
chilli, tamarind).
Fruits
Being a tropical country, Thailand excels in the fruit department. Má·môo·ang (mangoes)
alone come in a dozen varieties that are eaten at different stages of ripeness. Other com-
mon fruit include sàp·Ъà·rót (pineapple), má·lá·gor (papaya) and đaang moh (watermel-
on), all of which are sold from ubiquitous vendor carts and are accompanied by a dipping
mix of salt, sugar and ground chilli.
Some of the more unusual types of fruit you're likely to come across in Bangkok's
fresh markets and supermarkets:
Ka ̀ ·nu ̆ n Jackfruit hails from India. The giant green pod conceals dozens of waxy yellow sections that taste like a blend
of pineapple and bananas (it reminds us of Juicy Fruit chewing gum). At its peak from January to May.
Tu ́ ·ree·an Due to its intense odour and weapon-like appearance, the durian is possibly Southeast Asia's most infamous
fruit, the flesh of which can suggest everything from custard to onions. Available from May to August.
Lín·jèe The pink skin of the lychee conceals an addictive translucent flesh similar in flavour to a grape. Available from
April to June.
Ngó Known in English as rambutan, ngó has a tough hairy skin ( rambut is the Malay word for hair) that holds a clear,
sweet-tasting flesh and a large pit. Available from May to September.
Lam yai This indigenous fruit, known in English as longan, hides a sweet and fragrant flesh under its brittle shell. Often
dried and used in juices or as a snack. Available from June to August.
Má·feuang An import from the Americas, the starfruit or carambola is refreshingly crispy and slightly tart. Available
from October to December.
Chom·pôo Resembling a small pear, the indigenous rose apple is a delicate and crispy fruit with a slightly bitter flavour
and a mild rose scent. Available from February to June.
No ́ y na ̀ h Known in English as custard apple, this native of the Americas has a soft and slightly gritty texture and pre-
dominantly sweet flavour. Available from June to September.