Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
( Giant Swing; Th Bamrung Meuang; 24hr; klorng boat to Tha Phan Fah)
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During the second lunar
month (usually in January), Brahman beliefs dictate that Shiva comes down to earth for a
10-day residence and should be welcomed by great ceremonies and, in the past, great de-
grees of daring. So each year the acrobatic and desperate braved the Giant Swing, a now
disused but emblematic red frame made from six giant teak logs. The ceremony saw these
men swing in ever-higher arcs in an effort to reach a bag of gold suspended from a 15m
bamboo pole.
Whoever grabbed the gold could keep it. But that was no mean feat, and deaths were as
common as successes. A black-and-white photo illustrating the risky rite can be seen at
the ticket counter at adjacent Wat Suthat.
The Brahmans enjoyed a mystical position within the royal court, primarily in the
coronation rituals. But after the 1932 revolution the Brahmans' waning power was effect-
ively terminated and the festival, including the swinging, was discontinued during the
reign of Rama VII (King Prajadhipok; r 1925-35). In 2007 the Giant Swing was replaced
with the current, newer model. The previous version is kept at the National Museum.
PHRA SUMEN FORT & SANTI-
CHAIPRAKAN PARK
( Th Phra Athit; 5am-10pm; Tha Phra Athit, Banglamphu)
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Beside Mae Nam Chao Phraya
(Chao Phraya River) stands one of Bangkok's original 18th-century forts.
Alongside the fort and fronting the river is a small, grassy park with an open-air pavil-
ion, river views, cool breezes and a bohemian mix of alternative young Thais and
fisherman-pants-wearing, fire-stick-twirling backpackers. It's an interesting place to sit,
people-watch and see what are said to be the last two
lam·poo
trees - the tress after which
the area was named - in Banglamphu.
Built in 1783 to defend against potential naval invasions and named for the mythical
Phra Sumen (Mt Meru) of Hindu-Buddhist cosmology, the octagonal brick-and-stucco
bunker was one of 14 city watchtowers that punctuated the old city wall alongside Khlong
Rop Krung (now Khlong Banglamphu but still called Khlong Rop Krung on most signs).
Apart from Mahakan Fort, this is the only one still standing.
NOTABLE BUILDING, PARK
WAT BOWONNIWET
Wat Bowonniwet (Wat Bowon) is the national headquarters for the Thammayut monastic
BUDDHIST TEMPLE
