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In a way the park is suffering a career crisis, having lost most of its full-time employ-
ment to other locales or the whims of fashion. Until 1982 Bangkok's famous Weekend
Market was regularly held here (it's now at Chatuchak Park). Previously, the wealthy
came here for imported leisure sports; these days they head to air-conditioned gyms.
Today the cool mornings and evenings still attract a health-conscious crowd of joggers,
walkers and groups playing đà·grôr ( sepak takraw; kick volleyball). If you fancy a big-
crowd experience, Sanam Luang draws the masses in December for the King's Birthday
(5 December), Constitution Day (10 December) and New Year.
Across Th Ratchadamnoen Nai to the east is the statue of Mae Thorani, the earth god-
dess (borrowed from Hindu mythology's Dharani), which stands in a white pavilion. Erec-
ted in the late 19th century by Rama V, the statue was originally attached to a well that
provided drinking water to the public.
SILPAKORN UNIVERSITY
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( www.su.ac.th ; 31 Th Na Phra Lan; Tha Chang) Thailand's universities aren't usually repositories
for interesting architecture, but Silpakorn (pronounced sĭn lá Ъ à gorn ), the country's
premier art school, breaks the mould. The classical buildings form the charming nucleus
of what was an early Thai aristocratic enclave, and the traditional artistic temperament
still survives.
The building immediately facing the Th Na Phra Lan gate was once part of a palace and
now houses the Silpakorn University Art Centre. To the right of the building is a shady
sculpture garden displaying the work of Corrado Feroci (also known as Silpa Bhirasri),
the Italian art professor and sculptor who came to Thailand at royal request in the 1920s
and later established the university (which is named after him), sculpted parts of the
Democracy Monument and, much to his own annoyance, the Victory Monument.
UNIVERSITY
SILPAKORN UNIVERSITY ART CENTRE
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ART GALLERY
( www.su.ac.th/html_organizations_eng/artcentre.asp ; 31 Th Na Phra Lan; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat; Tha
Chang) F This gallery, located inside Thailand's most prestigious arts school, showcases
faculty and student exhibitions. There's also an accompanying courtyard cafe and art
shop.
THAMMASAT UNIVERSITY
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UNIVERSITY
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