Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Narrow Th Chetuphon divides the grounds in two, and it's well worth entering Wat Pho
from either this quiet lane or Th Sanam Chai to avoid the touts and tour groups of the
main entrance on Th Thai Wang. You'll come into the northern compound (the southern
part is closed to the public), where Phra Ubosot, the main ordination hall or
bòht,
is con-
structed in Ayuthaya style and is strikingly more subdued than Wat Phra Kaew. A temple
has stood on this site since the 16th century, but in 1781 Rama I (King Phraphutthayotfa; r
1782-1809) ordered the original Wat Photharam to be completely rebuilt as part of his
new capital. Rama I's remains are interred in the base of the presiding Buddha figure in
Phra Ubosot.
The images on display in the four
wíhăhn
(sanctuaries) surrounding Phra Ubosot are
worth investigation. Particularly beautiful are the Phra Chinnarat and Phra Chinnasri
Buddhas in the western and southern chapels, both rescued from Sukhothai by relatives of
Rama I.
Encircling Phra Ubosot is a low marble wall with 152 bas-reliefs depicting scenes from
the Ramakian. You'll recognise some of these figures when you exit the temple past the
hawkers with mass-produced rubbings for sale: these are made from cement casts based
on Wat Pho's reliefs.
WAT PHO'S GRANITE STATUES
Aside from monks and sightseers, Wat Pho is filled with an altogether stiffer crowd: dozens of giants and figur-
ines carved from granite. The rock giants first arrived in Thailand as ballast aboard Chinese junks and were put to
work in Wat Pho (and other wát, including Wat Suthat), guarding the entrances of temple gates and courtyards.
Look closely and you'll see an array of Chinese characters. The giants with bulging eyes and Chinese opera cos-
tumes were inspired by warrior noblemen and are called Lan Than. The figure in a straw hat is a farmer, forever
interrupted during his day's work cultivating the fields. And can you recognise the guy in the fedora-like hat with
a trimmed beard and moustache? Marco Polo, of course, who introduced such European styles to the Chinese
court.
What other holy site in the world includes massage? The air-conditioned massage pavilions near Wat Pho's
east gate provide a unique opportunity to combine relaxation with sightseeing.
On the western side of the grounds a collection of four towering tiled
chedi
(stupa)
commemorates the first four Chakri kings. The surrounding wall was built on the orders
of Rama IV (King Mongkut; r 1851-68), who for reasons we can only speculate about de-
cided he didn't want any future kings joining the memorial. Note the square bell shape
with distinct corners, a signature of Ratanakosin style. Among the compound's additional
91 smaller
chedi
are clusters containing the ashes of lesser royal descendants.
