Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
A 90-Minute Walk around West Jerusalem
The heart of West Jerusalem, centred on Jaffa Road,
was largely developed during the years of the British
Mandate (1917-1948). So, while it is nowhere near as
ancient as the Old City, it does carry a weight of recent
history related to the founding of the Jewish state of
Israel. Aside from the scattering of historic buildings
and monuments, this is also the heart of the modern
city, with pedestrianised streets of cafés, restaurants
and shops, cultural centres and busy markets. It is a
highly rewarding area to explore.
Walk west, past two British
Mandate-era post boxes, and
almost immediately you
come to palm-fil led Safra
Square, forecourt to the
New City Hall
Passing time on pedestrianised Ben
Yehuda Street
5
(see
p124) , also home
to the main tourist
information
office. Cross to
the lefthand side
of the road at the
next junction to
pass Feingold
House
2
, built in
1895, with its series
of arched shop
fronts and one
arched entrance to a
passageway containing
the fine bar-restaurant
Barood (see p1500 d . Look back
to spot the winged lion on
top of the Generali Building,
trademark of the Italian
insurance company that
once had its offices here.
Continue along Jaffa Road,
taking the next left into Rivlin
Street and Nakhalat Shiva 4
(see p123) . This is one of the
oldest parts of the modern
city (founded 1869) but
also one of the liveliest. Its
attractive two-storey buildings
are home to trendy eateries
and late-night bars. At the
bottom of Rivlin turn right,
3
Water sculpture on Safra Square at
the New City Hall
1
Jaffa Road
Until Tel Aviv got its own port
A
in the 1930s, Jews arriving in
Palestine would disembark at
Jaffa, entering Jerusalem on
the Jaffa Road. It ran right
up to the Old City and the
correspondingly named Jaffa
Gate. The road now ends just
short of the city walls, which
is where this walk begins,
at the rounded façade of
the Former Barclays Bank 1
(look for the “BB” in the iron
window grilles). The building
was on the line that divided
Arabs and Jews between 1948
and 1967 and still bears the
scars left by bullets.
0 metres
250
0 yards
250
KEY
Walk route
turn right,
then head up Salomon to
Jaffa Square, the traditional
gathering point for protests
and demonstrations. Running
west from here, Ben Yehuda
Street
(see p123) is one
of the city's main shopping
streets. Take the third right
into Ben Hillel, cross over
main King George V Street
and you will be standing in
front of Felafel & Shwarma
King, which makes supposedly
the best felafels in the city.
5
A balcony in the historic neighbourhood of Nakhalat Shiva
4
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp257-8 and pp272-4
 
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