Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
A 60-Minute Walk around the Old City Walls
The Old City of Jerusalem may occupy a relatively
small area geographically, but its compactness and
uneven topography make it a frequently confusing
place to explore. One good way to gain an overview
is to take to the ramparts and view the crush of alleys,
domes and towers from the top of the walls that
enclose them. Visitors can walk along two sections of
wall: from Jaffa Gate clockwise to St Stephen's Gate, and
from Jaffa Gate anti-clockwise to the Dung
Gate. The
g
section between St Stephen's Gate and the Dung Gate
is closed to the public. Many steep flights of steps
mean that this is not a walk for the elderly or infirm.
Clockwise from Jaffa Gate
Jerusalem's walls were built
in the first half of the 16th
century (in part on the line of
earlier walls) on the order of
the Ottoman sultan Suleyman
the Magnificent. They are
pierced by eight gates, of
which seven remain in use.
Until as recently as 1870, the
gates were all closed from
sunset to sunrise.
Start the walk by climbing
the steps that are immediately
inside the
Jaffa Gate
1
(see
p100)
, to your left as you
enter the Old City. After
paying admission, you pass
through a gate and ascend a
steep flight of steps leading
to the top of the gatehouse.
Heading north brings you
to the first of some
35 watchtowers
that punctuate
the circuit of
the walls.
This one has a
raised platform
which allows
walkers to step up
for a view of the large
new shopping and office
development that is currently
taking shape outside the city
walls. Looking into the Old
City, you will see the backs
of buildings belonging to
the Latin Patriarchate, the
centre of Roman Catholicism
in Jerusalem.
A short distance on and
The city walls wrap around
the Tower of David
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A section of the ramparts just east
of New Gate
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you'll notice that the third
watchtower along has been
reinforced with side walls; this
was done by the Jordanians
when they were in occupation
of the Old City between 1948
and 1967, and Jerusalem was
divided between Arabs and
Jews. After skirting around
three sides of a crescent-
topped dome, the ramparts
pass over
New Gate
2
. This
was added in 1889 to allow
pilgrims in the compounds
outside the walls direct access
to the Christian Quarter.
From here the ramparts
drop, following the slope of
the land. Notice the profusion
of aerials and satellite dishes
inside the walls, evidence of
TIPS FOR WALKERS
Starting point:
Jaffa Gate.
f
Length:
Jaffa Gate to St
Stephen's Gate 1.5 miles (1 km);
Jaffa Gate to Dung Gate 0.75
miles (0.5 km).
Open:
9am-4pm Sat-Thu;
9am-2pm Fri. There is a separate
admission fee for each of the two
sections of wall.
Stopping-off points:
There are
several small cafés on Omar ibn
el-Khattab Square, just inside the
Jaffa Gate. Otherwise, when you
descend at St Stephen's Gate,
walk west along the Via Dolorosa
and then left onto El-Wad Road
for Abu Shukri, which serves the
best houmous in town.
J
KEY
Walk route
Viewpoint
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the large number of people
who continue to live in the
Old City. At a certain point
the level of the rooftops falls
below that of the ramparts,
affording a fine view of the
golden Dome of the Rock.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p256 and p272
