Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
u
Belgrano
Northwest of Palermo.
*
138,
942.
£
Juramento, Belgrano C,
Belgrano R.
@
60, 65, 114, 118,
152.
(
Sat & Sun.
Named after Manuel Belgrano,
the Independence hero who
designed the national flag,
Belgrano was the capital of the
Argentinian Republic for a few
weeks in 1880. When the
authorities in the capital found
themselves at odds with the
provincial government, it was
chosen as a neutral seat of
power. These days, the only
evidence of this former glory
is the town hall, now the
Sarmiento Historical Museum
,
and the church of
La
Inmaculada Concepción
,
known to the locals as
La Redonda because of
its circular walls. The
barrio has a good range
of bars, restaurants, and
retail outlets and Buenos
Aires's only Chinatown
is also located here.
Belgrano proper is a
typical middle-class area,
but heading towards
Belgrano Residencial
beyond Avenida Cramer,
the high-rise apartment
blocks suddenly give
way to cobblestoned
streets, private houses,
and grand mansions. An
English parish church still
stands on Cramer, and many
houses ape the mock-Tudor
style found in England.
Chessboard-tiled dining room at Museo de Arte Español Enrique Larreta
E
Museo de Arte Español
Enrique Larreta
Ave Juramento 2291.
Te l
(011) 4783-
2640.
£
Juramento.
@
60, 65, 114,
118.
Open
1-7pm Mon-Fri,
10am-8pm Sat, Sun, & hols.
&
Thu
free.
8
5pm Mon-Fri, 4pm & 6pm
Sat & Sun.
7
limited.
=∑
museo
larreta.buenosaires.gob.ar
Located in the heart of
Belgrano, this museum
is housed in the former
residence of writer
Enrique Larreta (1874-
1961). He was an
important figure in
Argentinian modernism
and was nominated for
the Nobel Prize in 1941.
The house has light-
soaked indoor patios
and an ornamental
garden surrounded by
Andalusian fruit trees.
The displays include
paintings from the Renaissance
and Baroque eras, wooden
furniture, sculptures, and
weaponry collected over
several trips Larreta made to
Spain to research his 1908
historical novel,
The Glory of Don
Ramiro
. There are also several
portraits of Larreta himself for
which he sat in Paris in 1912. The
collection in the museum was
substantially augmented in 1997
with 30 paintings and objects
from the Museo de Arte
Hispanoamericano Isaac
Fernández Blanco, including
valuable works by Sánchez
Coello and Pantoja de la Cruz.
E
Museo Casa de Yrurtia
O'Higgins 2390.
Te l
(011) 4781-0385.
£
Juramento.
@
60, 65.
Open
11:30am-6pm Wed-Fri, 11:30am-7pm
Sat, Sun, & hols.
&
Wed free.
8
3pm
Fri, 4:30pm Sat, Sun, & hols.
7
^
=
∑
casadeyrurtia.gov.ar
Celebrated sculptor Rogelio
Yrurtia and his wife, the painter
Correa Morales, bequeathed
their stylish Neo-Colonial house
to the nation in 1942. It opened
as a museum in 1949. All the
pieces exhibited are from the
couple's personal collection and
testify to their eclectic tastes.
There are sculptures, mostly
figurative works in bronze or
plaster, and among the paintings
are still lifes, landscapes, and
portraits by Morales, alongside
those of other Argentinian
painters such as Martin Malharro,
Benito Quinquela Martín, and
Octavio Pinto. Standing out
among the pieces is
Rue Cortot
,
an early Picasso. There is also a
collection of Asian domestic
porcelain items, and textiles and
carpets from Mexico and Bolivia.
The furniture is a mix of Victorian
English and Second Empire
French. The garden is lined with
plane trees and grapevines.
San Martín de Tours
at Museo de Arte
Español
The Neo-Colonial façade of Museo Casa de Yrurtia
For hotels and restaurants see pp278-83 and pp288-99
