Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
In the end, the trip came together with a certain logic, but it was not the way any
of us would have organised it. Another team did apply, but there were only four of
them and the intention was for five climbers from each country. Howard Lan-
caster, Peter Holden and Malcolm Howells had been to the Hindu Kush the previ-
ous year and were keen to return to the big walls they had spotted in the Mandaras
Valley. As it happened, this was the location Zawada also favoured. The final mem-
ber was Terry King, an excellent alpinist and Scottish winter expert who had
climbed with Alex. In the summer of 1975, they had done
The Shroud
on the
Grandes Jorasses and the north face of the Grands Charmoz together. At last, since
the plan was originally mine, Dennis agreed that I become the fifth member. Since
Zawada and I were by now talking dates, finance and logistics, I met Peter Holden,
the leader of the British contingent.
It was a good team, even if only three had high-altitude experience, but it was
April by the time it was finalised. I got on with the paperwork, the long-distance
planning with Zawada and the writing of begging letters. We all had full-time jobs
but I worked flexi-hours and some weekends so could find time during the week.
Lord Chorley agreed to be our patron and we also had Chris Bonington's endorse-
ment. Boxes of useful food and accessories began to arrive at my Lakeland home
throughout the spring of 1977. Malcolm Howells had a good contact at White
Horse and also at Harrods, and soon cases of whisky and a huge hamper of spe-
cialist food arrived.
Zawada led the Polish team, as impressive as it was strong. Every one of their
members had experience above 7,000 metres on more than one trip. Marek
Kowalczyk had been part of the exchange that came to Britain in 1975, as had Piotr
Jasinski. They had climbed in the Pamirs and Hindu Kush, as had Jan Wolf, who
was also known for some audacious Alpine ascents. The fifth member was Voytek
Kurtyka, who I had climbed with on the rocks around Krakow the previous year. I
remembered his aquiline and intense face. Behind this was a calculating but caring
mind. Even then, he was seen in Poland as one of their finest, and most philosoph-
ical climbers. Over all the years and expeditions that followed, Voytek was one of
the few who could say he never lost a climbing companion on a trip.
LUCC members began to arrive in droves. John Syrett, John Powell, Adrian Gar-
lick and a host of others made the journey ostensibly to climb in the Lakes but the
timing just happened to coincide with the arrival of loads of free 'swag' for the ex-
pedition. I had to hide the whisky and food. Some of them, unknown to me, found
my uncle's store of rare wines to supplement evening meals of fish and chips. They
also had a great time taking the piss out of me for my high altitude pretentions.
