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back to Chamonix. Arriving at Le Brasserie National - the Bar Nash - they joined
the usual crowd of half-inebriated climbers when Alex spotted Alan Rouse looking
at him with an unusually solemn expression. Alan came over and quietly said: 'You
don't know the news about your dad, do you?' It was then that Alex rushed out and
phoned his mother.
'Alex did come home once he found out. His father's company left him a ticket at
Geneva airport. He was home for a while and then went back up to Manchester.
Then, two weeks later, I collapsed and went into hospital to have a hysterectomy. I
was about to turn 50 while I was in hospital and on my birthday Alex arrived unex-
pectedly with a big bunch of flowers, a bottle of champagne and a bottle of whisky.
“We have to celebrate, Mum, it's your birthday.” Well, we sat with all the nurses
drinking champagne, and I had a small whisky even though I felt like death. That
was Alex for you, he could be so generous and spontaneous.'
There was one thing in Alex's life that Jean did not understand. She remained
highly critical of Alex's climbing all the time I knew her. It scared her, but she also
disdained all the generally bad behavior that was part of climbing in the 1970s. I
suggested to Jean that our entire generation behaved badly in the eyes of their par-
ents and the authorities. The world seemed a mess, swinging radically in one dir-
ection and then back again. The three-day week led to the 'winter of discontent'
and then the election of Margaret Thatcher with her clean broom to sweep away
the unions. We might have behaved badly, but so did the punk and rock bands we
listened to, and the football team we followed - Leeds United.
'You know John, when we walked in to Annapurna, I understood even less about
why Alex would want to go climbing. It became harder and harder as we ap-
proached the mountain, it looked so terrifying, cold and steep. Why would he not
rather be in Hayfield with Sarah?'
'Alex was incredibly good at what he did, and he loved mountains and climbing.'
I tried to tackle an unspoken question. 'If he thought he was going to die, he
wouldn't have gone I'm sure.' But I only half believed what I was saying. We all
knew the risks. In truth, Jean was very proud of Alex's climbing successes, and all
the media attention he got. And if spending a bit of extra time with Alex meant of-
fering a shoulder to cry on when he needed it for emotional support, or giving him
a few quid when he was short, or a ride to the airport, then Jean would make sure
she was there.
The MacIntyres were reasonably well off but not wealthy. They rented a large,
draughty farmhouse in West Newton in the East Riding of Yorkshire. The house
was filled with an assortment of cats and a family dog. 'Between the cats and Alex,
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