Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
course, were not the only propagandists when it came to depicting mountain con-
quest. The Nazis constructed similar myths.
In 1960, the Chinese were so gushing in their description of worker heroes
climbing Everest with Mao Zedong in their hearts that few in the West believed
they had achieved the first recorded ascent from the north. Sceptics argued that no
one would take off their boots on Everest, as Chinese accounts claimed, but that is
exactly what a Chinese climber had to do to climb the Second Step on the north
ridge. Losing a few toes was a small price to pay for the glory of the party. This
concept was far removed from the Western Romantic concept of the 'freedom of
the hills' in which the journey of the individual is paramount. The Poles were indi-
viduals first and foremost even when they had to wear the cloak of being part of a
state-sanctioned expedition.
In Poland, climbing took a different direction to that in most other communist
countries. Ironically, the new hardcore of poor but very talented climbers that
emerged there had more in common with the climbing culture in Britain during
Margaret Thatcher's era. Whether climbing on the dole in Britain or forced to
make a dangerous living as a roped access worker in Poland, both groups deve-
loped the skills needed to face hardship and adversity - but on the climbers' own
terms. The very best working-class climbers came to the fore in this way and were
soon seen as part of the climbing elite. In Poland, that opened the way to state-
sponsored expeditions.
Whether you started climbing from a privileged or working-class background in
Poland, you still needed connections to succeed. If you were not already connec-
ted, you could become a party member or you could take the slower route through
the club structure. There were very few like Zawada, an established and semi-inde-
pendent individual from aristocratic stock who was married to the famous actress
Anna Milewska.
[5]
The standard route for most Polish climbers was climbing the ladder within the
official club structure. It was their form of apprenticeship. The end goal was to
climb in the world outside. To reach the top of the ladder, you first had to become
a member of the local climbing club. The first rungs would include following pro-
cedure to get an equipment allocation to climb in the Tatra. Private ownership of
equipment was difficult and expensive so most climbers relied on borrowing tech-
nical equipment from the local club pool of gear.
Once you reached a certain level of skill, you could go on club meets to the Polish
Tatra and perhaps, eventually, be given an exit permit to travel to the Czechoslov-
akian Tatra or even the Alps, with just enough hard currency from the local club in
your pocket to manage for a month or so. But to get cash and an exit visa you
