NO MORE HEROES - One Day as a Tiger - page 25

Voytek was definitely not a role model. He was simply someone with whom Alex
could develop and realise a brand new style of high-altitude climbing. I was the
link that connected Alex to Voytek. It started with a chance encounter in 1975 with
a man called Dennis Gray.
1. In 1974, there were still many of these: the south-west face of Everest, the south face of Lhotse, the east face of Dhaulagiri, the west face of
Makalu and the west ridge of K2 to name a few. As these were climbed, other 'last great problems' soon emerged, like the Kangshung Face and
north-east ridge of Everest. [back]
2. Dhaulagiri I in 1960. [back]
3. As with the Chinese claim to have climbed Everest from the north in 1960, this was initially doubted by Western authorities. [back]
4. There have been army and combined forces expeditions from the UK that sieged big peaks post 1975. Today's commercial expeditions to
Everest use siege tactics, but with Sherpas doing all the preparation and rope fixing for the guides and clients who follow. [back]