Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
carry their food - and so on. For those who now travel well-stocked trekking
routes, this may be hard to grasp.
By the mid 1970s, Eastern European and Japanese expeditions were consistently
proving that large, well-organised teams could build on the model of Bonington's
1970 Annapurna ascent and succeed on the last great problems. For the next gen-
eration, the question was simple: could a lightweight alpine style replace big ex-
pedition siege tactics? The race was on.
Alpine style meant self-reliance first and foremost, not being dependent on the
support of others. But to call alpine style 'lightweight' was a misnomer. Everything
you needed for the climb and survival had to go into one big rucksack. The more
technical the route, the more equipment was needed; and big routes could take a
week or more to complete. Over time and through experience that 'everything'
could be pared down to a minimum - but even so, leaving base camp carrying
such a heavy weight was daunting.
As climbing has evolved, alpine style as conceived in the 1970s no longer applies,
ironically, in the Alps. The amazing technical speed climbs being done start from
well stocked huts or are reached from the top of téléphériques or a helicopter drop
at the base of the route. The helicopter then follows the progress of today's heroes
who are off the mountain before lunch and don't need much in the way of equip-
ment.
Will the same be true of the Himalaya? It seems climbing is almost there now.
Until the turn of the century, most Himalayan peaks were still massive undertak-
ings. Twice the height of the Alps, and far more remote, the logistics were daunt-
ing. The actual climbing normally didn't start until well above the height of Mont
Blanc. Although the intention of an uninterrupted bottom-to-top ascent of un-
climbed faces or ridges was similar to climbing in the Alps, the need to get masses
of food and equipment to the base of the mountain - even for two people - was a
logistical and physical struggle.
Added to that was the need for a planned acclimatisation programme, achieved
by placing food and equipment caches on the descent route and by climbing easier
objectives which, nevertheless, were often major climbs in their own right. Alti-
tudes above 7,000 metres add several dimensions to the application of alpine
style. Alex knew what had to be done to achieve maximum performance. He also
had the pick of partners to help him achieve his goals. Even so, the choice of
climbers with the essential skills was limited. There were a handful of like-minded
climbers in Britain, but there were many more elsewhere.
Of all his partners, the Polish climber Voytek Kurtyka provided Alex with his
greatest source of inspiration. Voytek and Alex were very different in character.
