Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
one who spoke with them, or read the reports, took note not to make the same
mistakes, but the ascent proved that being bold and going light could bring about a
stunning result.
In that same year, the British siege-style expedition led by Chris Bonington suc-
ceeded on the south-west face of Everest. A massive amount of finance was needed
for expeditions of that scale with its nine lead climbers, seven support climbers
and sixty high-altitude porters. But thereafter, most British expeditions involved
just a few members. [4] Few climbers could attract the kind of sponsorship Boning-
ton could. Cost as well as ethics and aesthetics drove the development of light-
weight mountaineering.
To put Alex's achievements into context, listed below are the major British first
ascents in the Himalaya during the period he was active - from 1975 until his
death in 1982 -and the climbers that reached the summit:
1975 - The south-east ridge of Dunagiri: Joe Tasker and Dick Renshaw
1976 - Trango Tower: Mo Anthoine, Martin Boysen, Joe Brown and Malcolm
Howells
1976 - Changabang's west face: Pete Boardman and Joe Tasker
1977 - The Ogre: Chris Bonington and Doug Scott
1978 - The first alpine-style ascent of Jannu's south face: Roger Baxter-Jones,
Rab Carrington, Brian Hall and Al Rouse
1979 - The north-west face of Kangchenjunga: Peter Boardman, Doug Scott and
Joe Tasker
1979 - Nuptse's north spur: Georges Bettembourg, Brian Hall, Al Rouse and
Doug Scott
1979 - Gaurishankar's south-west ridge: Peter Boardman, Tim Leach, Guy
Neidhardt and Pemba Lama
1981 - Kongur first ascent: Peter Boardman, Chris Bonington, Al Rouse and Joe
Tasker
1981 - Annapurna IV: Adrian Burgess, Al Burgess and Roger Marshall
1982 - Shivling's east pillar: Bettembourg, Greg Child, Doug Scott and Rick
White
Alex MacIntyre's Himalayan climbs during this same short period were:
1977 - North-east face of Bandaka; with Voytek Kurtyka and John Porter
 
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