Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ised the value of Chris's leadership, Chris now sees Mike Thompson's article as a
'brilliant yet witty study of the expedition - a true social anthropologist's view.'
Bonington's professional approach may not have been the model others wanted
to emulate, but his record of success was one with which many aspiring climbers
wanted to be associated. An endorsement from Chris could make all the difference
when seeking sponsorship. Although selective, Chris was generally very generous
when it came to allowing his name to be used as patron for privateer trips, as he
did for our Anglo-Polish Changabang climb. An association with his professional-
ism gave credibility without impinging in any way on the lightweight approach to
the highest peaks.
The public had become captivated by Chris Bonington's brand of patriotic adven-
ture in the 1960s and 1970s and this gathering interest in climbing, promoted
through live broadcasts on the BBC and climbing films for independent networks
such as Thames Television, created public interest which Boardman, Tasker and
others exploited through writing and lecturing. (They were also very good at it;
their topics are still in print and their names associated with the leading mountain
literature prize in English.)
There were other, less high-profile ways to make a living from this growing in-
terest in climbing. There were already a handful of guides and professional out-
door instructors, and their numbers grew as outdoor education became fashion-
able. Climbers from this generation also proved technically curious and entrepren-
eurial, men like Denny Moorhouse, Tony Howard, Mike Parsons and Pete
Hutchinson, who all played a part in growing the outdoor industry. It was even
possible to make a living from publishing as Ken Wilson did at
Mountain
and then
with his book imprint Diadem. All of these provided career models for young
climbers.
Although Thompson's 'Out With the Boys Again' was a humorous take on Bon-
ington's management style, it hid his ability to manage individuals. This may seem
obvious, but knowing the individuals involved, it must have been like herding cats.
Strong teams led by Alan Rouse failed on Everest in winter in 1981 and on the
north-west ridge of K2 in 1986 because the individuals in the team tended to do
things their own way. There was no coordinated plan. Huge pressure was brought
to bear both on friendships and the logistics of these trips.
Privateers saw planning as a burden and secondary to all other concerns. Enjoy-
ing the experience came first and foremost; trips seemed to happen spontaneously,
planned in bars at events like the BMC's Buxton Conference or at Alpine Climbing
Group discos, or in the back rooms of pubs. Privateers seemed to gravitate towards
one another over beers, rather than be formally chosen as part of a team. 'Get
