Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
pecunious in comparison and made up of ambitious types fighting their way to the
top despite their lack of resources.
In the 1970s, it was much harder to make a living from climbing than it is now.
Mountaineering had a small following; media interest was limited. Chris Boning-
ton was then the only true professional climber in the country. His first British as-
cent of the north face of the Eiger in 1962 with Ian Clough propelled him into the
media spotlight. 'Our ascent of the north wall got the biggest press coverage I've
ever had,' he told me. 'I had no prior concept of just how great it would be; my de-
cision to snatch the route had been just that of the opportunist climber - it was
something that had exercised a whole host of climbers back in the early 1960s.'
A few more climbers like Doug Scott scraped a living from climbing by writing
and lecturing, but for Doug climbing was very much a way of life than a serious oc-
cupation, at least in his early years. It certainly wasn't easy for any climber to sur-
vive by climbing alone in the 1960s. Bonington's first few years were very thin, lec-
turing to ladies' luncheon clubs and the Women's Institute for £10 a time and run-
ning three years over the deadline on his first book. He worked hard to make his
way of living a profession, working at his various crafts: lecturing, writing and pho-
tography. There was no such thing as a sponsored athlete. Being linked to a manu-
facturer meant little more than being loaned equipment to test and endorse.
These things would change dramatically over the next decade or so, but it was
only after the south face of Annapurna expedition in 1970 that Bonington began to
earn a proper living. To remain a professional, he had to work extremely hard,
finding new climbing and adventure objectives each year, and then pitching them
to sponsors, publishers and the media. The new generation of privateers, which in-
cluded Alex, was more lackadaisical when it came to the business side of climbing.
To complete the maritime parallel, the difference was between official endorse-
ment for the exploits of Sir Walter Raleigh and the daring deeds of the self-fin-
anced Captain Hawkins. Climbing privateers were private in two senses. They were
relatively secret about their aims and their impoverished lifestyles meant financing
trips required some creative deals.
Over time, the boundaries between the two groups became blurred. As lead
climbers in Bonington's circle died or were discarded, others were given the oppor-
tunity to move up; it was a bit like promotion in the military during a war. If you
climbed at a high standard and were safe, no one really cared much about your
background. Climbing is inherently competitive, but the community is generally
respectful of climbing achievements although wickedly satirical of class and status.
The impact and influence Chris Bonington had at the time was huge but often
derided and even misrepresented. Chris unashamedly acknowledged he wanted to
