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build on his already considerable reputation. His passion, his style, was now his
obsession. Getting to the top would never be enough. It must be done perfectly.
I was eight years older than Alex and much more cautious. Two close calls on
Everest in winter the year before had taken something from my usual carefree ap-
proach and substituted it with greater respect for life and my own mortality.
The almost unbearable heat of the first three days spent winding our way up
through the rainforests was replaced by continuous heavy rain and chill winds as
we entered the Modi Khola valley beyond Landruk. The torrential rains flooded
the paths and the thunder of the river reverberated around the gorge. Even if we
had wanted to talk, the issues of managing the porters, some carrying double loads
and suffering in bad weather, took time and effort. We needed to stop and talk to
them, share a joke, encourage them by displaying our own massive loads. The
pounding rain made it difficult for us to communicate.
The leeches were living bombs, dropping from the branches and, like raindrops,
bouncing off our umbrellas. They were devious little creatures and every evening
we had to do complete body searches, carefully dosing with salt or putting a lit
match against the bloated bodies of those that had found a way through our de-
fences.
On the fourth day, the weather was so foul, we worried the porters might go on
strike if we insisted on a multi-stage day. Chhomrong was the last chance for a bit
of comfort before we entered the Annapurna Sanctuary, so we decided to stop at a
lodge after only walking six hours. [2] We crawled into sleeping bags, and talked and
read the afternoon away.
Despite being in my bag, I couldn't stop shaking with the cold. I'd spent too long
in just shorts and t-shirt as the rain turned to sleet. Alex seemed relaxed and as-
sured. That night, as the rain continued and the thunder echoed around the gorge,
I couldn't tell whether I slept or woke. I had memories and strange dreams which
mixed all of our previous times together.
Next morning, the rain started again as we set off into the narrowing gorge. The
huge forests of rhododendron provided some shelter from the wind. As we got
higher, Alex began to relax and open up. In the smoke-filled lean-to where we slept
that night, we talked the evening away, squatting on the floor or sitting on rough
benches to eat gritty dal bhat that tasted of kerosene. Alex was on fire with his love
of climbing and his need to achieve something new each year. It was then that he
revealed his list.
'Two expeditions a year from now on,' he exclaimed. 'Once we've climbed the
south face of Annapurna, I can relax for a few months. I've got Makalu and K2 on
the agenda for next year. Want to come?'
 
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