Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Alex had now graduated from the smaller peaks of the Himalaya and was apply-
ing his skills to the unclimbed eight-thousander faces. In the same graduating
class but with more experience at altitude was Voytek. It wasn't just the shift in the
scale of the challenge; the two climbers were committed to move away completely
from any thoughts of big expedition tactics.
This was more difficult for Voytek than for Alex. For Voytek, it meant breaking
from the national traditions and structures of the Polish system. Yet Bandaka and
Changabang had proven to the PZA that the new style could also bring national
prestige, crucial for continued funding from the communist party. Voytek's reputa-
tion was also riding high. His achievements forced the PZA to make him a full
member without him even applying. (That way he was less likely to be criticised by
the PZA and party apparatchiks.) His model was also being followed by a number
of other leading Polish climbers: Kukuczka, Alex Lwow, Krzysztof Wielicki and
others.
Alex was a perfect partner for Voytek to develop their mutual obsession for
alpine style. Voytek said of Alex: 'He had an aura. He was very brave in two ways;
he was fearless and he broke with tradition.'
Alex, like Voytek, was increasingly ambitious to apply their methods to the
toughest challenges. But success for Alex put him into an upward spiral, both in
terms of his ambition and his ego. This was very unlike Voytek who continued to
climb for the sake of climbing. [1] However, Voytek said when Alex was in the moun-
tains he had no ego.
'He was always the unseen member of the team until required and then he would
pull out something exceptional. He was a power card, like the joker in the pack.'
Voytek's break with Zawada's big expedition style was now complete. Alex dis-
cussed their attempts on Makalu with Andrez at the 1982 Buxton Conference.
Zawada said to Alex that their failure on Makalu proved his point. To be assured of
success, Zawada said a large team was essential. Indeed, small alpine trips to
8,000-metre peaks were, in Zawada's opinion, rather silly.
'Why waste so much resource and risk failure? Success is paramount,' he told
Alex.
But there was also a contentious debate at the time around the comparative
safety of big and small trips. It went like this: were you more likely to have an acci-
dent on a big expedition, since you had to spend much more time at high altitudes
exposed to dangers? Were small trips, climbing alpine style, inherently safer be-
cause you were faster and spent less time at altitude?
Alex was very matter of fact in his response to this question. He had done his re-
search, which made him informed and thoughtful, and not judgemental. Unexpec-
 
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