Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
by the nylon I had the good idea of cutting open the sack to get some air but unfortu-
nately could not find the knife. A request to René to borrow his got me it, after some
mild disbelief, and a zip being opened to let in fresh air and the inevitable spindrift.
Luxury! Voytek could only manage a solo effort, perched on crumbling snow and
half-slumped in slings with a bivvy sack over his head and unable to get in the sleep-
ing bag, all on a face awash with wind-driven powder.
We fled this spot at the first hint of daylight to the unwelcome sight of fresh banks
of clouds and struggled on up through fresh snow to the comparative shelter of the
lee side of a large rock buttress to the left of which we had to pass. Here we had a
brew, standing like early morning commuters in a daze sipping lukewarm cups of
tea, before shuffling on up and, finally, out of the face in the last of the evening light,
stumbling over the mixed ground to a bivvy site underneath a large boulder on the
ridge, and the full fury of Dhaulagiri's winds.
The summit preparations began early. We brewed through much of the night in an
effort to recoup our water intake and were out of the tents by daybreak but the bid
faltered. We stood where a large slab of snow had once lain and eyed its cousin
through the gloom. With more clouds rolling in, this fracture line above was the
straw which finally induced the camel to realism and we called it a day, bailing out
and off down the ridge to the welcome arms of Kusang, cabbage and paraffin.
We went back a week later in pleasant, certifiably survivable conditions and topped
out to a blue sky and a clear view, and then beating it back to Jomsom to await what
is not the most reliable air service in the world.
1. This scene, describing Alex's late arrival at the BMC offices in Manchester, includes cameos from some co-workers. The Lady is Rita Hallam,
secretary at the BMC, the Cheshire Cat is Mark Hutchinson, The Menace is Dennis Gray.
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2. 'Uncle Choe' was Choe Brooks, 'Black Nick' was Nick Colton, not to be confused with Nicky Donnelly, or Blond Nick. 'René' is René
Ghilini.
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