Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
also made links with potential sponsors and new partners. For example, he
climbed
Orion Face Direct
on the Ben in a couple of hours with Hermann Huber,
the boss of Salewa. The competence shown by British climbers on these meets, and
during exchanges in alpine countries and elsewhere in the world, linked to the per-
sonal friendship with alpine guides who came to the UK, helped British mountain
guides to be accepted in the international guides federation.
Dennis Gray looked back with some nostalgia at the national officers who served
under him. In their own ways, they helped shape the BMC during a period of
change and controversy that required cool heads. 'I think Peter was mature beyond
his years, and Alex so sharp with his mind and tongue that you had to be on top of
your game to better him. They both worked hard for the cause, putting in many
more hours than nine to five, travelling the length and breadth of the country.
Neither ever claimed once for a hotel or bed and breakfast; they were always con-
tent to stay with mates, acquaintances and sleep if necessary on floors.' It was a
period when the habits of the privateers remained long after their move to the
to stay on his journeys, full of gossip and climbing intrigue, always informative,
but never taking it too seriously.
In early 1980, Alex put his job on hold for an attempt on the east face of Dhaula-
giri. He continued to write to Sarah when they were within range of a post office.
Sarah received a last letter from Pokhara before the team set off for base camp.
'It was very matter of fact and it said: “That's it, you've won and I'm yours now so
now we are together.” Before he went, I was aware that it all could change and he
might still go back to Gwyneth, but when I received this letter, I was happy. I just
passively accepted the situation. I believed we were in love.'
I noticed that Alex was less argumentative with Sarah than he had been in other
relationships, or indeed with anybody. The only time that the relationship with
Sarah was threatened was when Alex came back from a trip with a girl that Sarah
suspected he had been sleeping with. That, Sarah said, was just part of the game
with climbers; what upset Sarah was the fact he brought her back.
'I was working really hard and late at night with a new stage set and I couldn't
deal with the fact that this other woman was in the house. Maybe I got it wrong,
and it was just too obvious they had been together, but in any case, I withdrew. I
told him if he wanted me, he would have to make an effort, and he did. It was the
only moment of volatility in our relationship. Everything mended quickly. It was
very calm and peaceful. Alex rarely talked about climbing and I think he needed
our relationship as a safe place away from that.'
