Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ger me, that's steep,' I thought to myself, trying not to reveal my sudden con-
sternation.
Using a borrowed pen, I started somewhere near the bottom and drew a ram-
bling line upwards, a bit like a three-year old trying to connect the dots on a page
before being able to count. At the same time I tried to appear distracted by a ques-
tion about transportation from Delhi from a very distinguished gentleman from
the end of the table. He implied enormous distances and hardships were involved
which did not stack up with my image of taxis with overly full roof racks. It was
enough time to complete my doodle and casually float it back to Doug. Had I im-
pressed him with my choice of route? He remained silent for the remainder of the
interview.
I concluded with an inflated summary of our skill, the need to push out the fron-
tiers of lightweight style and the importance of East-West relations during a time
of world crisis. I smiled and thought that was sure to win them over. I got a few
knowing nods and encouraging grunts for my efforts. Then it was over. I semi-
bowed and Doug escorted me out into the corridor.
'Nice one, youth,' Doug said half under his breath. 'You chose the only definite
chop route on the face.'
I half stopped, stunned by this revelation of my own incompetence; I tried to get
an intimation from Doug whether or not I had totally blown it. He smiled and
turned back into the room. A small group of climbing professionals well equipped
with maps and papers brushed passed me. They were welcomed with hearty and
familiar greetings from the MEF committee. I headed for the train with my tail
between my legs.
I didn't know it at the time, but we'd got the cash we needed - just - to make a
success of the trip. Nor did I know that the following year I would make an even
bigger plonker of myself in front of the MEF. In those days all we hoped for was a
chance. There was really very little point in planning for the big mountains. Too
much could go wrong. The important part was to get there.
'The whole thing will be a miracle if we pull it off,' I told my diary on 27 July
1978, the day we left Millom. 'We are a strong team doing an obvious thing just
short of the impossible … the details are less important than the fact of going.'
So the second détente expedition was underway, although the marketing value of
'détente' had lost something in the face of increasing tension between East and
West. There were rumours in the press that the USSR was planning an invasion of
Afghanistan - something we knew from first hand. My good friend, Peter Clark,
and his then wife, Julie, agreed to drive me out to Krakow, where I would meet
Voytek to sort out the Polish paperwork for the expedition. We would then go out
