Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
'Alex was really matter of fact about it when Choe arrived, sort of “here you go,
meet Colin, that's all sorted then.” He was so pragmatic about relationships, at
least with me.' Maria felt this was an important part of Alex's character. If he de-
tected someone was unhappy, his caring side emerged and he tried to put it right.
When Maria was going through a particularly bad time running several affairs at
the same time, Alex decided this was not right.
He told her: 'Dump them all and meet someone else.' He had Joe Tasker in
mind, and so he drove Maria up to Wales one weekend to a party at Al Harris's
knowing Joe would be there. 'When Joe and I did get together,' Maria said, 'Alex
was as direct as usual. He said: “You realise there is a one in ten chance that Joe
will die every time he goes on an expedition, which means the longer you stay with
him, the greater the chance that he's going to die.” It really made me think because
I had never had a serious Himalayan climber as a boyfriend. I began to ask others,
like Gwyneth, how they coped when their partners were away.'
Maria's first experience of the uncertainty and insecurity of the woman left be-
hind came when Joe went to Kangchenjunga in 1979. Alex was in the process of
breaking up with Gwyneth. Maria recalls that one night he made a drunken at-
tempt to start a relationship, but on his terms and only for a short time, suggesting
they share some time together while Joe was away.
Maria recalled: 'Alex said well, your bloke is away, and I don't have a girlfriend,
so why don't we get together and you can use my car. It's better than yours. That's
exactly what he said. I was sitting at the table and couldn't stop howling with
laughter.'
She told Alex that she really didn't think so, especially now that she was with Joe.
When Joe returned from Kangchenjunga, Maria recalled that she was driving him
back up to Manchester and 'just yakking' about all the news and mentioned Alex's
approach, thinking it would be something else to make him laugh. But the oppos-
ite happened.
'He was beside himself with anger and months later when Alex and Sarah came
round for a meal, Joe went out and refused to speak to Alex. There was tension
between them for the remainder of their lives.'
1. The mountain leader certificates for summer and winter are now generally accepted as a good thing, while other qualifications - like the Single
Pitch Award certificate - were forced onto the BMC training committee because the MLTB were threatening to create one, and some colleges were
already trying to register a similar certificate nationally as an NVQ independent of the BMC. The BMC has steered climbing into fairly safe waters
compared to some other sports. Although after Alex's time, the various climbing qualifications, from Mountaineering Instructor Certificate to full
blown guide affiliated to the UIAA, are more or less a vertical ladder of professional progression. Today, a risk averse education system dominated
by certification means debate has calmed - but only until an accident occurs.
[back]
2. Libby became a successful businesswoman and rider. In recent years she has been able to choose her work. Alex would have been incredibly
proud of his sister's success.
[back]
