Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ture of the BMC, and the senior clubs, including the Alpine Club, were seen as out-
of-date and out-of-touch. This attitude grew in the aftermath of a tragedy in the
Cairngorms in 1971 when six children froze to death on a school winter excursion
into the hills. 'The tragedy should have been prevented,' howled the press. Every-
one agreed. Climbers argued that the children were put at risk because education-
alists tried to put adventure on the school agenda when it was not for everyone. It
was they, not the BMC, that controlled the Mountain Leader Training Board.
The debate went on for years and was often reduced to farce. One member of the
House of Lords argued that, 'only a handful of climbers such as Chris Bonington
could survive a night camped out in the Scottish mountains.' Articles appeared de-
manding that the hills be closed in winter. The same issues are played out today,
but a stronger BMC is in place. Then, as now, the tabloid press attacks any activity
they cannot fathom by trying to appeal to 'conventional wisdom'; something the
press usually creates for its own purposes. This is usually along the lines that noth-
ing can be gained putting people at risk, and the personal choice to do so is socially
abhorrent, and in turn puts others at risk.
Adverse press surrounding the Cairngorm tragedy meant the public not only
blamed the teachers, but also blamed climbers for wanting to climb. The govern-
ment responded to that public concern by pushing for the introduction of qualific-
ations for teachers taking children into the hills. Leading lights in the BMC - the
president, the management committee and senior officers - sensed the winds of
change blowing through Whitehall and found themselves in a dilemma. They knew
that the values of mainstream sport and education were very different from those
of mountaineers and adventure climbers. Yet if the BMC was not in a position to
represent climbing at the legislative table of government, then things could be
taken from their hands. That could result in access to the hills being blocked, man-
datory insurance and certification for all climbers. The BMC's role was, therefore,
to fight the climber's corner whilst not being seen as either extremist or elitist.
When Alex arrived at the BMC, arguments about the value of any qualification
were raging, filling climbing magazines. A 'diploma mentality' was seen as under-
mining adventure. For anyone brought up after the debate, it will be difficult to see
climbing,' Dennis Gray said. 'The Cairngorm tragedy convinced a lot of mountain-
eers that there had to be more involvement in and moderation of mountain train-
ing activities by the mainstream of the sport.'
The BMC set up a specialist group, chaired by Lord John Hunt with Gray as sec-
retary, to do a review and make recommendations. 'In retrospect we were a little
naive; there is nothing like meddling with other people's livelihoods and standing
