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statues make Bago an appealing destination, while pressing on further south you'll find the
boulder-and-pagoda balancing act of Kyaiktiyo, best known as the Golden Rock - a feat of
apparent gravity defiance which will live long in the memory. South of here, don't miss the
boat trip along the Thanlyin River from the former British capital of Mawlamyine to Hpa-
An , a town that makes a great base for day-trips into the surrounding karst-littered coun-
tryside. In the far south of the country is the Tanintharyi Region , which is gradually be-
ing opened up to international tourism - many make a beeline for the gorgeous white-sand
beaches of the undeveloped Myeik Archipelago.
The highlight of central Myanmar , and perhaps of the whole country, is Bagan , nestled
beside the Ayeyarwady River and surrounded by sweeping plains covered in an astonishing
profusionofancienttemples-oneofAsia'sgreatestspectacles.Mostothertownsinthecent-
ral plains still remain off the mainstream tourist circuit, although if you have time its worth
visiting the skyscraper-sized Buddha statue at Maha Bodhi Tataung, near the town of Mony-
wa , while the sprawling remains of the great Pyu city of Sri Ksetra can be seen just outside
the enjoyable Ayeyarwady town of Pyay . Most travellers give the national capital, Naypyit-
aw , a wide berth, though this is one of Asia's fastest-growing cities and visually arresting in
a manner unique to Myanmar.
With Kayah and Kayin states mostly off-limits to tourists, it's large Shan State (a good deal
of which is itself closed) that epitomizes the appeal of the hilly east of the country. Most
travellers choose to base themselves in Nyaungshwe , which sits close to the north end of
spectacular Inle Lake - a day-trip on its waters, visiting stilt villages and colourful markets,
is the prime attraction hereabouts. Adventurous sorts can opt to hike to the lake from Kalaw ,
a lofty town with its own appealing ambience - two or three days of gentle walking will give
youtheopportunitytoseehowsomeofthearea'smanyethnicminoritygroupsgoabouttheir
lives.
Mandalay , Myanmar's second city, doesn't quite live up to the magic of the eponymous
Kipling poem, but linger and you'll find the place will grow on you. There's Mandalay Hill
toclimbforonething,memorablebothforitsviewsandfortheexperienceofjoiningthrongs
of locals doing the same. Then there are the day-trips to former Burmese capitals such as the
once-mighty Inwa , now a sleepy backwater scattered with stupas that you can visit by horse
and cart.
Most of northern Myanmar is closed to foreigners, largely due to the history of conflict
between the army and ethnic militias in Kachin State. The parts that can be visited are
safe, however, and provide some of the country's best opportunities to spend time with local
people. One of the most memorable ways to do this is on a boat trip on the Ayeyarwady
north of Mandalay up to Katha and Bhamo , where long journey times and a scarcity of for-
eigners make it easy to get a sense of provincial life. Heading northeast from Mandalay in-
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