Basics - The Rough Guide to Myanmar - page 56

VEGETARIAN FOOD IN MYANMAR
Despite the fact that many people in Myanmar are Buddhists, most are enthusiastic om-
nivores rather than strict vegetarians . There are plenty of vegetarian options out there for
travellers, but at times - typically when faced with a meat-only curry spread - it might not
feel like it.
One of the first things to learn is “ theq-thaq-luq ”, a Burmese phrase meaning “without
living things” that is widely used to describe vegetarian food. In many instances, it's pos-
sible to point at a dish and ask for it served theq-thaq-luq . Although this approach doesn't
guarantee that the chef will hold back on the fish sauce or bone stock, it will produce the
same dish served without obvious meat or fish.
For true vegetarian food, you may need to be slightly conservative in regard to what and
where you eat. Curries (even the egg ones) are often prepared with either ngăpí fish paste
or meat-based stock, and are best avoided if that concerns you. In Burmese curry restaur-
ants fill up instead on lightly flavoured side dishes and salads , as these are often served
theq-thaq-luq to begin with. Vegetable and tofu dishes in Chinese restaurants are generally
vegetarian-friendly, and Indian and Western restaurants often serve a range of vegetarian
dishes.
Vegan travellers will face similar challenges, although - thanks to the lack of dairy
products used in Burmese cooking - the vast majority of Burmese dishes are dairy-free to
begin with.
Regional cuisine
Thanksperhapstotheubiquitous Shannoodlesand mi-shay , Shancooking hasahigherpro-
file inside Myanmar than the cuisine of many other ethnic minorities. While some dishes are
similar to their Bamar counterparts, the Shan versions are often less oily and feature more
fresh ingredients, often being served with a small dish of mon-nyin jin (pickled vegetables).
Shan tofu soup ( tohu ngwe ) is a popular breakfast dish - the tofu is actually a gram flour
paste, cooked with rice vermicelli and topped with coriander and chilli to serve. Shan-style
buffet meals are common in Mandalay (perhaps more so than in Shan State itself), with big
colourful spreads served all day - best eaten in the morning or at lunchtime.
Further north, the traditional food from Kachin State is also lighter than most Burmese
cuisine, with many steamed dishes and some interesting salads, including amedha thouq ,
which comprises pounded dried beef flavoured with chilli and herbs, and shat jam , a dish of
rice, diced vegetables, ground meat and herbs mixed together. Other cooked dishes include
chekachin , a dish of chicken steamed with herbs in a banana leaf, and sipa - steamed veget-
ables with herbs topped with a vaguely sesame-flavoured sauce.