Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Hidden away above the wide sandy shores of
Kyun Daw
(“Royal Island”) in the middle of
the Ayeyarwady is
Shwe Baw Kyun
. An estimated seven thousand pagodas forest the east-
ern end of the island, some gleaming with new gold leaf while others are barely recognizable
piles of bricks. The site's origins are murky, but it was apparently already in need of renov-
ation by the mid-eleventh century, when
King Anawrahta
perked it up and gave the central
pagoda a new
hti
.
Today it makes an intriguing if somewhat uncomfortable (you'll need to carry your shoes)
place to wander barefoot for an hour or two. Long whitewashed corridors radiate outwards
from the main shrine surrounded by
tazaung
(tier-roofed chapels), birds sing from the under-
growth that curtains many of the older stupas, and fragments of stucco decoration cling to
exposed brickwork.
If you've had enough pagodas, the island village next to Shwe Baw Kyun also makes an
attractive place to explore, while on the riverbank opposite Kyun Daw is
ShweAndaw
. This
small pagoda is the site of a lively festival around the time of the Tabaung (February/March)
full moon.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: SHWEGU
By boat
Catching a boat out of Shwegu requires a willingness to lurk around the jetty and
wait. Fast boats to Katha (4hr) pass through at around 11.30am, while Bhamo-bound boats
arrivearound1.30pm(5hr)-buyticketsforbothservicesonboard.TheIWTferriestoMan-
dalay theoretically stop at Shwegu just after noon on Mon, Wed and Fri. Delays are frequent
on all services.
GETTING AROUND
By boat
Long-tail boats (K500 one-way) run out to Shwe Baw Kyun from a logging jetty
400m north of Shwe Andaw; 8am is the peak time to find one. It's also possible to charter a
boatstraight fromthemainjetty totheisland,whichoughttocostK10,000forthereturntrip
including waiting time.
By tuk-tuk and motorbike taxi
Tuk-tuks and motorbike taxis are hard to find in Shwegu -
you'll probably have more luck hitchhiking. The 15min drive from one end of Shwegu to the
other costs around K2000.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Shwegu's only accommodation options are around a 15min walk northwest of the jetty (turn
right once you reach the road). The northwest end of Shwegu's main road is lined with
Burmese restaurants, teahouses andbeer stations, most ofwhich serve decent andreasonably
priceddishes,butnoneofwhichseemtohavemanycustomers-pickthebusiestandprepare
to point and order.
