Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Burma) over the river in 2011 resulted in the demise of the old ferry service to Bagan, mean-
ing that most travellers now pass straight through. The town is still a worthwhile destination
for a half-day trip, however, offering a trio of temples and an interesting slice of traditional
life compared to touristy Nyaung U down the river.
Thihoshin Pagoda
The glittery
ThihoshinPagoda
, in the centre of town, is instantly recognizable thanks to the
large clocktower next to the main entrance, while its interior is dazzling, with virtually every
surface covered in multicoloured glass mosaics. The large courtyard at the back is home to
a modest
museum
(free), piled high with assorted exhibits in glass cases including the usual
old Buddhas, banknotes, bells, palanquins, lacquerware and a considerable quantity of dust.
Shwegugyi Pagoda
Just under 1km down the road from Thihoshin Pagoda
Like the Thihoshin Pagoda, the
Shwegugyi Pagoda
is a study in Burmese kitsch, its main
shrine decorated with abundant white-and-orange frills and flourishes, with a slender golden
stupa on top. The interior is contrastingly plain, save for the temple's prized
Tangetawgyi
Buddha
, framed against a hundred-year-old woodcarved backdrop, its mass of intricate fili-
gree populated by 136 little people along with various birds and animals. The top of the
carvingdepictstheBuddha'sdescentfromtheTavatimsa(akaTrayastrimsha)heaventoearth
after preaching tothegodsabove,accompanied byIndraandBrahma -afavourite subject of
Burmese artists.
Shwe Mo Htwa
The town's third major temple is the
Shwe Mo Htwa
, a pretty little complex with a dense
cluster of spiky-roofed shrines painted in various shades of gold and green, all arranged
around a large courtyard dotted with prayer poles and planetary posts. The temple stands on
the edge of town overlooking the Ayeyarwady, with sweeping views up- and downriver.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: PAKOKKU
By minibus/pick-up
Two minibuses (1hr) depart daily at 7am and 9pm for Pakokku from
Nyaung U, dropping near the market; alternatively, catch a pick-up (1hr 30min), also from
nearthemarket.HeadingtoMonywa(3hr),thereareacoupleofdailyminibusesplusregular
but slower and uncomfortable pick-ups. There are also buses to Shwebo (daily; 6hr).
By car
A half-day trip to Pakokku from Bagan costs around $35/40 by jeep or car.
