Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
SUNSET-VIEWING TEMPLES
Sitting high on the terrace of an ancient temple watching the sun set over the plains below
is one of Bagan's essential experiences, although the decision in 2013 to close many of the
temples' upper terraces for conservation purposes means that the choice of sunset-viewing
perchesisnowsomewhatlimited,andthemostpopularplacescangetunbearablycrowded.
Horse-drawn carriage drivers can often point you in the direction of lesser-known viewing
spots.
The classic place to watch the sun go down is the
Shwesandaw Pagoda
,
which is stra-
tegically located close to many of Bagan's landmark monuments, though it can get ap-
pallingly busy - arrive early. The same can be said for the almost equally popular
Sh-
wegugyiPaya
in Old Bagan; nearby, largely crowd-free alternatives include the Mahazedi
stupa and the
Mimalaung Kyaung
. Another popular spot is the well-positioned
Buledi
, a
large stupa off Anawrahta Road between Nyaung U and Old Bagan, although again space
is at a premium (to reach it, take the dirt road just east of the Alotawpyi-gu-hpaya follow-
ing the sign to “Bulethi/Sulamani”). The nearby
Shweleiktoo Pagoda
offers equally good
views, and is usually a bit less crowded. In the Central Plain, the spacious terrace atop the
Pyathada Paya
offers plenty of room and fewer crowds, although it's now being steadily
discovered by the coach-party brigade.
One final option is the government's eyesore
Bagan Viewing Tower
(daily
6am-10.30pm; K5000). It's overpriced, rather too far from the major landmarks and not
nearly as atmospheric as the temples, although it does have the advantage that, being on it,
you won't have to look at it.
Lawkahteikpan Paya
Around 150m north of the Shwesandaw Pagoda • Daily 8am-6pm
The diminutive
Lawkahteikpan Paya
is easily missed but worth a look for its fine murals.
Black-and-white Jataka strip paintings decorate the sides of the entrance hall, with two
Buddha footprints on the ceiling above, while the shrine's gilded Buddha image is framed by
a series of larger and more colourful painted scenes showing the usual events from the life of
the Buddha, including the ever-popular Temptation of Mara (at the top of the arch behind the
image on the right-hand side); Mara himself is seated grandly on top of a white elephant.
Dhammayangyi Paya
Follow the dirt track off Anawrahta Rd opposite the track leading to the Ananda Paya • Daily 8am-6pm
A brooding presence amid the monuments of Bagan's Central Plain, the huge
Dhammay-
angyi Paya
is cloaked in sombre legend. Built by the homicidal
King Narathu
(ruled
1167-71), the Dhammayangyi's construction was planned as a grandiose act of royal merit-
making which,
Narathu
apparently hoped, would be sufficient to wipe out the bad karma ac-
