Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Completed in 1090 during the reign of King Kyansittha, the
Ananda Paya
is one of the
largest and most stunning of all the Bagan temples, its landmark spire rising 52m high above
the surrounding plains. The Ananda is generally considered the culminating masterpiece of
early-period Bagan architecture, although it also hints at the city's later architectural style,
with its six rooftop terraces and soaring spire giving it an upwardly mobile profile quite un-
like earlier, horizontally challenged designs. The ground plan (a Greek cross embedded in a
square) is also innovative, with four entrances rather than the customary one, while the ab-
senceoftheusualbrick-latticeworkfillinsidethewindowframesallowsfarmorelightinside
compared to the atmospheric gloom which had previously been the norm in Bagan shrines.
The exterior
Before plunging inside, it's worth circumambulating the temple to have a look at the build-
ing'ssuperb
exterior
.Thefourimposingentrancesarerichlydecoratedwithminiaturestupas
and extravagant flame-shaped door and window pediments, while above, the corners of the
six terraces are crowded with assorted miniature stupas and statues of lions and Buddhas.
Fine glazed tiles depicting various Jataka scenes (the largest such collection in Bagan) run
around all six terraces; those adorning the base of the temple depict (on the western side of
the building) the Buddha's victory over Mara and his monstrous army and (on the eastern
side)
devas
holdingauspicioussymbols.Lookout,too,fortheunusualdouble-bodiedchinthe
which sit at ground level guarding the corners of the structure.
The interior
The Ananda boasts one of Bagan's finest
interiors
. The four entrances are each protected
by a pair of door guardians seated in niches. Beyond, there's an unusual double ambulatory
(one ambulatory enclosed within the other), with huge teak doors hung at each of the four
entrances to the outer ambulatory and numerous ornate niches lining the ambulatory walls,
with small carvings within including Buddha figures and scenes from his life.
Four enormous
Buddhas
stand on each side of the temple's central core, with further pairs
of guardian figures in front. The Buddha statues on the north and south sides are original
(in the
dharmachakra
, or teaching, mudra). The other two are replacements in the later Kon-
baung style for original statues destroyed by fire in the 1600s. Sitting at the feet of the west-
ern
Buddha
(in the
abhaya
- “have no fear” - mudra) are two lacquer figures said to depict
King Kyansittha and Shin Arahan. The eastern Buddha - with arms by its side and hands
outstretched - is unusual in that it doesn't conform to any recognized mudra. The small ob-
ject between the image's fingertips is said to be a herbal pill, perhaps symbolizing the cure
from suffering offered by the Buddha's teachings. Quirkiest of all is the face of the southern
Buddha, which changes from a pensive pout to a cheesy grin as you walk away from it.
