Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
StretchingbetweentheShanhillstotheeastandtheAyeyarwadyRivertothewest,the
plain of central Myanmar (which includes parts of Bago, Mandalay and Magwe divi-
sions)comprisesaflatandrelativelyfeaturelessexpanseofcountrysidewhosemodern-
day somnolence belies its pivotal role in the history of the nation. The heartland of
Bamar identity, the region is home to three of the country's former capitals - Pyay,
Bagan and Taungoo - each of which successively controlled empires stretching across
large parts of Myanmar, and sometimes beyond. Attempts to re-create the region's
formerglorycanalsobefoundatMyanmar'ssurrealnewcapital,Naypyitaw,strategic-
ally situated midway between Yangon and Mandalay.
Highlight of the region is undoubtedly Bagan , heartland of the first great pan-Burmese em-
pire, whose legendary temples blanket the surrounding plains in an astonishing profusion of
Buddhist architecture. Bagan is also the jumping-off point for visits to the quirky nat shrines
at MountPopa , while slightly further afield the workaday town of Monywa provides a con-
venient base for exploring the eye-crackingly huge Buddhas of Maha Bodhi Tataung and
the endearingly kitsch pagoda of Thanboddhay .
For the majority of visitors, shuttling post-haste between Yangon, Mandalay and Bagan,
the remainder of the region is a place to be traversed as painlessly as possible, though there
are several other interesting destinations en route that offer a quintessential taste of provin-
cial Burmese life. Heading north from the capital along the Yangon-Mandalay Expressway,
the moated town and former capital of Taungoo is worth a stop for its clutch of temples,
fine lake and hints of former glory, while further north personable Meiktila has plenty of
small-town charm, a beautiful lakeside setting and a further sprinkling of colourful shrines.
Midway between the two, the nation's bizarre new capital, Naypyitaw , is essential viewing
for students of Myanmar at its most brazenly outlandish. Alternatively, taking the slow road
north from Yangon along National Highway 2, it's worth overnighting at lively Pyay , home
to another major temple complex and the enigmatic remains of the ancient Pyu capital of
Thayekhittaya (Sri Ksetra).
TRAVEL RESTRICTIONS
All the areas covered in this chapter are fully open to tourists without prior permission,
with the exception of a few high-security areas around Naypyitaw and the elephant camp
outsideTaungoo.PermitsarealsorequiredforboattripsnorthofKalewaonthe Chindwin
River , and for any trips into Chin State .
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