Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
EXPLORING MRAUK U'S TEMPLES
The two main groups of temples are to the
north
and
east of the centre
; most are open
daily 7am-5.30pm, with entry covered by a single ticket (K5000) issued at the Shittaung
Paya(althoughticketchecksatothertempleswerevirtuallynonexistentatthetimeofwrit-
ing).
Although Mrauk U is often described as the “new Bagan”, comparisons are misleading.
Asidefromthe“bigthree”temples-
Shittaung
,
Htukkanthein
and
Kothaung
-MraukU
doesn't really have Bagan's landmark monuments and must-see sights, and in some ways
rather than ticking off temples it's more fun just to cycle or walk at random among the
thickly wooded, stupa-studded hills.
Easily the best introduction toancient Arakan andMraukUisPamela Gutman's
Burma's
Lost Kingdoms: splendours of Arakan
(Bangkok: Orchid Press; 2001), although it's diffi-
cult to come by.
Famous Monuments of Mrauk U
by Myar Aung (K5000) is widely avail-
able locally, but is mainly unintelligible gibberish.
Northern Group
MraukU's
NorthernGroup
oftemplesistheundoubtedhighlightoftheancientcity,centred
on the landmark
Shittaung
and
Htukkanthein
temples. Both are classic examples of the
city'suniquestyleoffortifiedtemple,setuponimpregnablyhighbasesandwiththick,almost
windowlesswalls.Thedesignoffersanaptreflection ofmedieval Arakan'sturbulenthistory,
duringwhichthecitywasattackedonnumerousoccasions-thetemplesthemselvespossibly
served as refuges for the embattled population. Later and more decorative monuments such
as the nearby
Ratanapon
and
Laung Bwann Brauk
offer a notable contrast in style.
Shittaung Paya
K5000 for ticket collected at Shittaung along with a more or less obligatory K2000 “donation” to light the cor-
ridors of three temples (Shittaung, Htukkanthein and Andaw Thein) for one hour
The usual starting point for tours of Mrauk U is the landmark
Shittaung Paya
, built by the
founder of Mrauk U, King Minbin, in 1535 to celebrate his reconquest of “the twelve towns
of the Ganges” (roughly half of modern Bangladesh) - the name refers to the 80,000 (
shit-
taung
) images said to be housed here. The temple is set on a huge fortified terrace and sur-
rounded by numerous small stupas in Mrauk U's distinctive style, topped not by the usual
spirebutwithatruncatedfinialvaguelyresemblingastonemushroom.Somefaintreliefscan
also be seen in places around the outer walls (including a couple of vaguely erotic scenes on
the southern side). Unfortunately the exterior is now a complete mess following the addition
of a modern prayer hall and stairway in the mid-twentieth century, while in 2003 (following
the discovery of cracks in the main stupa) the Archeology Department decided to encase the
