THE GUIDE - The Rough Guide to Myanmar - page 170

TRIPS TO THANDWE
Around 10km inland from Ngapali (around K7000 one way by tuk-tuk), the town of
THANDWE providesalow-keybutenjoyablereminderofBurmeselifebeyondthebeach
- and sees quite a few visitors from the resorts looking for a slice of the “real” Myanmar.
Thandwe has a long history. Minbin himself served as governor here for a decade before
launching his bid for power, while the British (who called it Sandoway ) established a gar-
risonhere.It'snowthelargesttowninsouthernRakhine,althoughthere'snowhereforfor-
eigners to stay, and food is limited to the usual noodle and curry stalls around the market.
Thandwe's intensely atmospheric market , housed (bizarrely) in the old colonial jail, is
worth a look, and there are also three rhyming temples, each said to enshrine a bodily part
of the Buddha. Just over 1.5km northwest of the market, the NandawPaya is said to have
one of the Enlightened One's ribs, while to the east of the market the Sandaw Paya has a
hair and the Andaw Paya a tooth.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: NGAPALI
Byplane Flights arrive at Thandwe Airport at the northern end of Ngapali beach. The hotels
stretch from just outside the airport all the way down the coast to the Pleasant View Resort ,
around 10km south. Most hotels provide free airport transfers - check when you book. There
are regular flights to Thandwe Airport with KBZ, Yangon Air, Air Bagan, Air Mandalay and
Asian Wings. Most flights stop at Thandwe as part of longer circular routes, including Yan-
gon-Thandwe-Sittwe and Nyaung U-Heho-Thandwe, meaning that although you can fly
direct from Yangon to Thandwe (for example), travelling from Sittwe to Thandwe you might
have to go all the way back to Yangon. Many flights cease running in the rainy season. You
can buy plane tickets from Caravan travel agent ( 043 44044) on the road to the airport.
Destinations Bagan (daily; 1hr 20min); Sittwe (3 daily; 40min); Yangon (5 daily; 40min).
By bus Approaching by bus, you might end up in the nearby town of Thandwe , from where
it's a short (around K7000) ride by tuk-tuk to Ngapali. There are services direct to Ngapali
from Yangon via Pyay and then 1 nightly (12hr) from Pyay to Thandwe - these pick up/drop
off passengers at hotels along the beach (some hotels also sell bus tickets). There may also
be additional services to Yangon, travelling down the coast via Gwa, which are sometimes
slightly quicker, depending on the latest road conditions.
Destinations Pyay(1daily;12hr);YangonviaPyay(1daily;18hr);YangonviaGwa(1daily;
16hr).
By boat Boats run from Sittwe to the small town of Taunggok, around 80km north of
Thandwe, from where pick-ups (4hr) run on to Thandwe. You'll most likely have to either
spend the night in Taunggok (pick-ups tend to all run in the mornings) or splash out on a taxi