Phnom Penh - Cambodia - page 71

to the extermination camp of Choeung Ek. They were often bludgeoned to death to avoid
wasting precious bullets.
The remains of 8985 people, many of whom were bound and blindfolded, were ex-
humed in 1980 from mass graves in this one-time longan orchard; 43 of the 129 commun-
al graves here have been left untouched. Fragments of human bone and bits of cloth are
scattered around the disinterred pits. More than 8000 skulls, arranged by sex and age, are
visible behind the clear glass panels of the Memorial Stupa, which was erected in 1988. It
is a peaceful place today, masking the horrors that unfolded here less than three decades
ago.
Admission to the Killing Fields includes an excellent audio tour, available in several
languages, which includes stories by those who survived the Khmer Rouge, as well as a
chilling account by Choeung Ek guard and executioner Him Huy about some of the tech-
niques they used to kill innocent prisoners and defenceless women and children.
The museum here has some interesting information on the Khmer Rouge leadership and
the ongoing trial. A memorial ceremony is held annually at Choeung Ek on 9 May.
To get to the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek, take Monireth Blvd southwest out of the
city. The site is well signposted in English about 7.5km from the bridge near St 271. Fig-
ure on about US$10 for a remork (drivers will ask US$15 to US$20).

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

Wat Phnom
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(temple/museum admission US$1/2; 7am-6.30pm, museum 7am-6pm) Set on top of a 27m-high
tree-covered knoll, Wat Phnom is on the only 'hill' in town. According to legend, the first
pagoda on this site was erected in 1373 to house four statues of Buddha deposited here by
the waters of the Mekong River and discovered by Madame Penh. The main entrance to
Wat Phnom is via the grand eastern staircase, which is guarded by lions and naga (mythic-
al serpent) balustrades.
Today, many people come here to pray for good luck and success in school exams or
business affairs. When a wish is granted, the faithful return to deliver on the offering
promised, such as a garland of jasmine flowers or a bunch of bananas, of which the spirits
are said to be especially fond.
The vihara (temple sanctuary) was rebuilt in 1434, 1806, 1894 and 1926. West of the
vihara is a huge stupa containing the ashes of King Ponhea Yat (r 1405-67). In a pavilion