Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
DEATH OF THE 'DEATH HIGHWAY'?
For years, Mondulkiri and Ratanakiri Provinces were connected by a spider's web of ox-cart trails
known as the 'death highway'. Hard-core bikers would get hopelessly lost on this route. Intrepid and
knowledgable local drivers would charge tourists US$50 to make the nine-hour trip from Sen
Monorom to Ban Lung on the back of a Honda Dream. Completing the trip was a badge of courage on
the backpacker trail.
Alas, the death highway is no more. A real highway has been built from Koh Nhek, Mondulkiri, to
Lumphat, Ratanakiri, where a new bridge over the Srepok River is scheduled to be ready by late 2014.
If progress is not for you, the cattle tracks of the old 'death highway' do still exist (the new highway
takes a different path). Look around in Ban Lung or Sen Monorom for a
moto
driver who will take
you on the old route - Mony (see below) is one.
Eating & Drinking
Most of the guesthouses have restaurants, the most noteworthy of which are Nature Lodge
and Sovankiri; the latter also has a good bar if you want to stay up until, oh, 11pm.
Khmer Kitchen
(mains US$2-4; 6am-10pm; )
This unassuming streetside eatery whips up some of the
most flavoursome Khmer food in the hills. The
kari saik trey
(fish coconut curry) and oth-
er curries are particularly scrumptious.
CAMBODIAN
$
Green House
Restaurant & Bar
(mains US$1.50-3.50)
As well as internet access and tour information, Green House is a pop-
ular place for inexpensive Khmer and Western dishes plus cocktails against a backdrop of
ambient reggae beats.
INTERNATIONAL
$
Mondulkiri Pizza
( 097 522 2219; small/large pizza US$5/10; 10am-10pm)
The big electric oven here churns
out a half-decent pie, and will deliver to your guesthouse.
PIZZA
$
Hefalump Cafe
CAFE
