Eastern Cambodia - Cambodia - page 576

Skilled motorbike and mountain-bike riders can ride from Veun Sai to Siem Pang in
Stung Treng via Itub (a few hours' walk south of the gibbon zone) along a scenic trail that
begins on the north side of the river.
RESPECT THE DEAD
The chunchiet (minorities) of Ratanakiri bury their dead amid the jungle, carving effigies of the de-
ceased to stand guard over the graves.
When a lengthy period of mourning is complete, villagers hold a big celebration and add two
carved wooden likenesses of elephant tusks to the structures. Some of these tombs date back many
years and have been abandoned to the jungle. Newer tombs of wealthy individuals have been cast in
concrete and show some modern touches like shades and mobile phones.
There are many cemeteries scattered throughout the forests of Ratanakiri, but most of them are
strictly off limits to visitors. Cemeteries are sacred sights for the chunchiet ; enter them only with per-
mission from the village chief and preferably in the company of a local. If you are lucky enough to be
allowed into a cemetery, touch nothing, act respectfully and ask permission before taking photos.
Unfortunately, there have been many reports of tourists ignoring clearly marked signs (in English)
urging outsiders to abstain from entering chunchiet cemeteries. Worse, unscrupulous art collectors and
amateur anthropologists from Europe have reportedly been buying up the old effigies from poor villa-
gers.
Ta Veng
Ta Veng is an insignificant village on the southern bank of Tonlé San, but it acts as the
main gateway to Virachey National Park and the base for many treks run by private oper-
ators in the park's buffer zone. It was in the Ta Veng district that Pol Pot, Ieng Sary and
other leaders of the Khmer Rouge established their guerrilla base in the 1960s. Locals say
nothing today remains of the remote base, although, in a dismal sign of decline, they point
out that Ta Veng had electricity before the war.
Ta Veng is about 57km north of Ban Lung on a roller-coaster road through the moun-
tains that affords some of the province's better views. The road passes through several
minority villages , where it is possible to break the journey. There are some very steep
climbs in sections, and for this reason, it wouldn't be much fun in the rain. Travel by mo-
torbike or charter a vehicle.
It is possible to hire small boats in Ta Veng for river jaunts (US$15 to US$20 in the loc-
al area or US$80 to US$90 for the five-hour trip to Veun Sai).