Eastern Cambodia - Cambodia - page 560

GETTING TO LAOS: STUNG TRENG TO DON DET
Getting to the border The remote Trapeang Kriel/Dong Kalaw border ( 6am-6pm), 60km north
of Stung Treng, is a popular crossing point on the Indochina overland circuit. For many years, there
was a separate river crossing here, but that's gone now. Sorya Phnom Penh Transport, in partnership
with Pakse-based Lao operator Sengchalean, has buses from Phnom Penh straight through to Pakse's
2km Bus Station (US$27, 12 to 14 hours). This bus leaves Phnom Penh at 6.45am, with pick-ups pos-
sible in Kompong Cham (around 9.30am), Kratie (around 11.30am) or Stung Treng (around 3pm).
Trips in the other direction depart Pakse at 7.30am. Services to Laos from Siem Reap are also pos-
sible, with a bus change in Soung. The only other option to the border is a private taxi (US$35 to
US$45) or moto (US$15 to US$20) from Stung Treng.
At the border Both Lao and Cambodian visas are available on arrival. Entering Laos, you'll pay
US$35 to US$42 for a visa, depending on nationality, plus a US$2 fee (dubbed either an 'overtime' or
a 'processing' fee, depending on when you cross) upon both entry and exit.
Entering Cambodia, they jack up the price of a visa to US$25 from the normal US$20. The extra
US$5 is called 'tea money', as the poor border guards have been stationed at such a remote crossing.
In addition, the Cambodians charge US$2 for a cursory medical inspection upon arrival in the country,
and levy a US$2 processing fee upon exit. These fees might be waived if you protest, but don't protest
for too long or your bus may leave without you. The bus companies want their cut too, so they charge
an extra US$1 to US$2 to handle your paperwork with the border guards. To avoid this fee, insist on
doing your own paperwork and go through immigration alone.
Moving on Aside from the Sorya bus, there's virtually zero traffic on either side of the border. If
you're dropped at the border, expect to pay 150,000/50,000 kip (US$12/4) for a taxi/ săhm-lór head-
ing north to Ban Nakasang (for Don Det).
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Around Stung Treng
In addition to the homestay program at Preah Rumkel, there are some worthwhile
community-based tourism initiatives, including homestays, in O'Russey Kandal , about
28km south of Stung Treng, and in Koh Preah , about 15km south of Stung Treng. Both
programs have a slew of tours and activities on offer and there are volunteer opportunities
as well. Contact Mlup Baitong ( 012 899471; www.mlup-baitong.org ) in Stung Treng for in-
formation on O'Russey Kandal, and CRDT ( Click here ) in Kratie for information on Koh
Preah. Xplore-Asia can also help fit you into these programs.