Eastern Cambodia - Cambodia - page 531

KOMPONG CHAM PROVINCE
Kompong Cham Province draws a growing number of visitors thanks to its role as a gate-
way to the northeast. Attractions include several pre-Angkorian and Angkorian temples, as
well as some atmospheric riverbank rides for cyclists and motorbikers. The provincial cap-
ital offers an accessible slice of the real Cambodia, a land of picturesque villages, pretty
wats and fishing communities.
Kompong Cham is the most heavily populated province in Cambodia but it sure won't
feel like it. Most residents enjoy quieter lives, living off the land or fishing along the
Mekong River. Rubber was the major pre-war industry here and there are huge plantations
stretching eastwards from the Mekong. Some of Cambodia's finest silk is also produced in
this province and many of the country's kramas (scarves) originate here.
KRAMA CHAMELEON
The colourful checked scarf known as the krama is almost universally worn by rural Khmers and is still
quite popular in the cities. The scarves are made from cotton or silk and the most famous silk kramas
come from Kompong Cham and Takeo Provinces.
Kramas have a multitude of uses. They are primarily used to protect Cambodians from the sun, the
dust and the wind, and it is for this reason many tourists end up investing in one during a visit.
However, they are also slung around the waist as mini-sarongs, used as towels for drying the body,
knotted at the neck as decorations, tied across the shoulders as baby carriers, placed upon chairs or beds
as pillow covers, used to tow broken-down motorbikes and stuffed inside motorbike tyres in the advent
of remote punctures - the list is endless.
Kramas are sold in markets throughout Cambodia and are an essential purchase for travellers using
pick-up trucks or taking boat services. They have become very much a symbol of Cambodia and, for
many Khmers, wearing one is an affirmation of their identity.
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Kompong Cham
042 / POP 70,000
More a quiet town than a bustling city, Kompong Cham is a peaceful provincial capital
spread along the banks of the Mekong. It was an important trading post during the French
period, the legacy of which is evident as you wander through the streets of chastened yet
classic buildings.