Northwestern Cambodia - Cambodia - page 511

TMATBOEY: ON THE TRAIL OF THE GIANT IBIS
Cambodia's remote northern plains, the largest remaining block of deciduous dipterocarp forest, sea-
sonal wetlands and grasslands in Southeast Asia, have been described as Southeast Asia's answer to
Africa's savannahs. Covering much of northwestern Preah Vihear Province, they are one of the last
places on earth where you can see Cambodia's national bird, the critically endangered giant ibis . Oth-
er rare species that can be spotted here include the woolly-necked stork, white-rumped falcon, green
peafowl, Alexandrine parakeet, grey-headed fish eagle and no less than 16 species of woodpecker, as
well as owls and raptors. Birds are easiest to see from December to April.
In a last-ditch effort to ensure the survival of the giant ibis, protect the only confirmed breeding
sites of the white-shouldered ibis and save the habitat of other globally endangered species, including
the sarus crane and greater adjutant, the Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS; www.wcs.org ) set up
a pioneering community ecotourism project. Situated in the isolated village of Tmatboey inside the
Kulen Promtep Wildlife Sanctuary , the initiative provides local villagers with education, income
and a concrete incentive to do everything possible to protect the ibis. Visitors agree in advance to
make a donation to a village conservation fund, but only if they actually see one or more of the birds.
Tmatboey village lies about 5km off the smooth new highway that links Preah Vihear City and Sra
Em. The turn-off is 46km southeast of Sra Em and 39km northwest of Preah Vihear. The village is ac-
cessible year-round. To arrange a three-day, two-night visit (US$550 per person for a group of four,
including accommodation, guides and food), contact the Siem Reap-based Sam Veasna Center
(SVC; 063-963710; www.samveasna.org ). Visitors sleep in wooden bungalows with bathrooms
and solar hot water.
For those wanting to explore the most remote corners of Cambodia, the Kulen Promtep Wildlife
Sanctuary has a new birding site, about 60km from Tmatboey as the giant ibis flies, in the remote
forest village of Prey Veng . The WCS and SVC aim to replicate the success of Tmatboey to ensure
conservation of this habitat. Many of the same bird species from Tmatboey can be seen at Prey Veng,
including the white-winged duck for serious enthusiasts.
A new community guesthouse in Prey Veng should be open by the time you read this. Prey Veng of-
fers great opportunities for hiking through the open dry forest to a distant hilltop temple from the
Angkor period. Trips here can include a visit to Beng Mealea and Koh Ker en route. Contact SVC for
pricing details.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Preah Khan
Covering almost 5 sq km, Preah Khan (admission US$5) - not to be confused with a temple of
the same name at Angkor - is the largest temple enclosure constructed during the
Angkorian period, quite a feat when you consider the competition. Thanks to its back-of-
beyond location, the site is astonishingly quiet and peaceful.