South Coast - Cambodia - page 423

The twin hills of Phnom Da shelter five artificial caves , used for centuries as Hindu and
Buddhist shrines and, during the Vietnam War, as hideouts by the Viet Cong. Exception-
ally, the temple entrance faces due north; the other three sides have blind doors decorated
with bas-relief nagas . The finest carvings have been taken to museums in Angkor Borei,
Phnom Penh and Paris.
Nearby, on a second hillock, is 8m-high Wat Asram Moha Russei , a restored Hindu sanc-
tuary that probably dates from around AD 700.
Getting There & Away
Hiring a boat for the trip from Takeo's dock costs around US$35 return for up to four
people. The canal leading out to Angkor Borei is clearly delineated in the dry season but
surrounded by flooded rice fields the rest of the year. In the rainy season the water can get
rough in the afternoon, so it's a good idea to head out early.
You can travel by moto from Takeo to Phnom Da in the dry season only for about US$5
return.
Phnom Bayong &
Environs
Affording breathtaking views of Vietnam's pancake-flat Mekong Delta, the cliff-ringed
summit of Phnom Bayong (313m) is graced by a 7th-century Chenla temple built to celeb-
rate a victory over Funan. The linga originally in the inner chamber is now in Paris'
Musée Guimet, but a number of flora- and fauna-themed bas-relief panels can still be seen;
for example, on the lintels of the three false doorways and carved into the brickwork.
The sweltering climb up to the temple takes about 1½ hours (bring plenty of water), or
you can hire a moto in Kirivong to take you up in less than 20 minutes (US$10). It's a
treacherous path, which explains the high price.
Gentle Kirivong Waterfall (Chruos Phaok Waterfall) is reached by a 1.5km access road
that begins about 1km south of Kirivong. Market stalls here sell the area's most famous
products: topaz and quartz, either cut like gems or carved into tiny Buddhas and nagas .
This area is popular with locals.
Getting There & Away