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soaring canopy. The 16 bungalows leave little to be desired, although the cheaper ones,
curiously, don't face the ocean. The US$35 rooms are set way up on the hill with sweep-
ing sea views, while the US$55 and US$65 rooms are on the beachfront and practically
lapped by waves at high tide. The food is scrumptious.
Coco Bungalow
( 081 466880; cocos-kohrong.com ; Koh Tui ; bungalows US$15-50) This place is close to the vil-
lage and the pier, so it does not offer quite as much privacy as others on this stretch, but
you are nonetheless just a stumble away from your own private patch of sand. The solid-
wood bungalows have two beds and sleep three to four people. Cheaper bungalows share
bathrooms, while pricier digs are up on the hill with prime views.
BUNGALOWS $$
Song Saa
( in Phnom Penh 023-686 0360; http://songsaa.com ; villas from US$1350; ) The South
Coast's first ultra-luxury property occupies a pair of private islands just off the east coast
of Koh Rong: Koh Bong and Koh Oeun (his and hers in Khmer), hence the sobriquet
'sweetheart' (song saa). The over-water and jungle villas are honeymoon-ready and there
is a striking restaurant-bar set over the sea. Opulence pure and simple, if you can afford it.
RESORT $$$
Koh Lanta
(Koh Tui; US$3-6; 7am-10pm) Named after the famous French Survivor show, which un-
fortunately didn't survive its second series in Cambodia, this place offers the best wood-
fired pizza on the island, plus has a small bakery for fresh bread and even a newly impor-
ted ice-cream machine.
INTERNATIONAL $
Koh Rong Samloem
M'Pay Bay
( 016 596111; mpaybay.com ; s/d tents US$ 5/7, bungalows US$20) A cluster of simple bun-
galows nestled amid mangroves in a fishing village on the north side of Koh Rong Sam-
loem, M'Pay Bay is all about living in harmony with nature. Efforts are made to limit
waste, and management takes pains to ensure that the local fishing village benefits from
tourism. From the resort it's a short walk south through the mangroves to a long crescent
beach sweeping around a bay.
RESORT $
 
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